Saying Yes

In 1974 I hitch-hiked across Canada to the Montreal Olympics and then over the next many months I made my way back and forth across the USA.

One afternoon in Arizona I was standing by the road and a car load of Native Americans slowed as they drove past and I can still remember hoping they weren’t stopping for me, after all I had my preconceived stereotype of them and I’ll be honest and admit that at a younger age, it wasn’t flattering.

As we drove along they asked if I wanted to hear some singing and I thought they meant the radio.  “Sure” says I and they start singing some traditional songs and explain them to me.  I was invited to come and stay at their house and being a bit nervous about something or another I declined with an excuse about having to keep moving.

I have regretted that ever since.  It might have turned out to be a most wonderful experience, but I will never know.

With that in mind on this trip I am planning to say “yes” to every opportunity.

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Ashok, my host is in the travel industry so arranged for a car and driver for the day.  Meet Azim who spoke just enough English that we could understand each other.  He took me to a some of the tourist sights in Hyderabad and at one point, I was kind of ready to head home and he suggested a temple and I declined, then remembered and changed my mind and said “yes”.

Cameras were not allowed unfortunately as it was a beautiful place made of white marble overlooking the city.  Lots of idols and carvings of gods. I got talking to a priest who spoke a little English and was given some holy water to drink.  So far I don’t think it has worked, but it was great being included in what all the worshipers were doing.

To the museum, where they have refined the “let’s charge the rich foreign tourist a bit more” rort and taken it to the extreme.  Entry is Rs 20 for locals and a bit of a premium for me at Rs 500 and for that I still had to pay extra to take photos (not an uncommon additional fee).

There was a lot to see but the highlight is a statue called Veiled Rebecca.  I had to spend quite a bit of time looking from different angles to be certain that it was carved and didn’t have a material veil placed over it.  I have never seen anything quite like the way the sculptor has somehow made marble look transparent.

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On to Charminar.  You are going to have to do your own research on these places, it is worth it.  While the traffic has been hilariously incredible, the area around this monument is that image of India that you have seen so often.

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The photo doesn’t do any of it justice, the crowds, the traffic, the shops, the structure itself.  In fact because we were a little pressed for time today and didn’t have long, I am going to head back there tomorrow by bus to spend a few hours just hanging out.

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Hmmm…dosa, Indian fast food

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When you are in Hyderabad I highly recommend you eat at the Amat Hotel.  We ate there last night and then by coincidence that Amiz stopped there for lunch today…well, maybe not a coincidence since it is popular.  When a meal costs Rs 200  ($4.50) I generally don’t think there is going to be a lot of it…but I was very wrong.

There are actually 2 rotis on my plate, it was overwhelming to just look at.  Then half way through the meal Vani and I both spotted a waiter walking towards us with a huge bucket of rice and we must have thought the same thing, that he was bringing it to us.  As he walked past we both collapsed laughing at just the thought of it being delivered to us.  There has been a lot of laughing.

Have you noticed the lack of cutlery.  Yep, eating with your hand (right hand only) is how you do it.  A pile of rice in the middle of your plate, take one or more of the accompanying dishes, massage it together and with a little practice and some instructions on etiquette it becomes second nature.

And I haven’t even touched on our visit to the Sound and Light Spectacular at Golconda Fort before dinner.  I am fitting so much into a day it is hard to believe that was last night…seems like a week ago already.

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And to cap it off, Facebook was all abuzz with the long awaited ousting of Abbott.   YES!

 

To market…

I have only been in India for 36 hours and it already feels like I have been here for months.

Vani and Ashok are extraordinary people – I would love to get Vani and my sister Di together, the connection would be instant.  I contacted Vani through Couch Surfing and have to admit that right up to the moment she gave me her address I wasn’t confident this was going to happen.  She messaged me and advised  that there was a bunch of kids in the house and Vani was right, but this is a wonderful story.

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The photo is after we came back from an incredible dinner at a Dosa house at about 10PM last night…they tend to eat pretty late here.  The photo is great, but moments before we had all dissolved in fits of laughter.  I set up my camera on the back of a nearby car with a 10 second timer and it was counting down.  You couldn’t plan it better, just at flash moment, guess what happened.

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See us in the background?  :o)

Vani is a teacher at a college that does an engineering preparation course.  She has this bunch of students, but I have to use the term loosely.  These young men, around 17 years old, are more like family, I have never quite seen anything like it.  They are absolutely welcome in Vani and Ashok’s home and they act like they live here.

The boys like to hang around me and when we went out to dinner there were too many people for the car, so I was invited to go on the back of a motor-bike.  I was tired and didn’t quite think the implications through:

  • This is a motorbike
  • I am in India
  • No one wears a helmet
  • No one takes any traffic “rule” seriously
  • I have zero idea of the skill level of the 17 year old driver (though he is still alive so that must count for something)
  • My travel insurance likely doesn’t cover riding pillion on a motorbike

It was about a 15 minute ride and I can honestly say that I was only terrified for about 14:30 of it.  About half way there, as we came way too close to yet another vehicle I thought to myself “what the fuck were you thinking?”.

At one point Vishwanath seemed to think I would like the exhilaration of riding fast.  Since I was behind him he obviously couldn’t see the whites of my eyes dominating the night sky.  But by embedding my fingernails in his ribs I made it clear that riding slow is bad enough, riding fast was simply nuts and he got the message.  Then he made a left turn into a busy road and at no time did he look to see if there was any traffic coming, I imagined waking up in an Indian hospital.  But we did make it in one piece and on the way back it was in the car for me – I have done it once, that is plenty thanks.

Somewhere along the line Vani has adopted an orphanage to support and has encouraged her students to get involved in doing community work.  So when I arrived at the house all these young men we making and decorating statues of Ganesh to sell at a Sunday organic market for Ganesh Chaturthi.

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This is one of those rare treats in the life of a traveller.  To be directly involved with the locals, get to know a few people and hang out.  But there is a down-side to it as well.  I am being so well taken care of that it is like I haven’t quite been thrown into the deep end of India yet.  But I am certainly a bit more prepared, trying to learn a few basic Hindi words and making sure that any cultural gaffs are pointed out.

As always it is the kids.  Here’s a couple of kids from the orphanage, apparently their parents have either died from AIDS or are in prison for some reason.  Maybe when I get home we can do something to support them.

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They started off pretty shy, but some magic tricks, a few nursery rhymes on the ukulele and I ended up king of the kids.  This little one below  was the daughter of one of the other stall holders and quite bold.  She wanted to be in a photo :o)

IMG_0131Yes, I am growing a beard only because I am too lazy to shave.

As well as our Ganesh idols, there were other delights at this Sunday organic market.

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In fact, these are used for cooking stoves or burned to keep insects away…but it certainly isn’t something you see every day at home 😛

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I’ve had a few things to do to get started.  Get a SIM card, power plug adapters, do some repairs (already). 

I was looking forward to a good nights sleep after getting to bed at about 1am local time which is about 5am by my body.  And sleep well I did, for a while.

Not sure what time the call to prayer at the mosque next door was, but it got my attention.  Then at 8am my body decided it was time to wake up, unfortunately it was 8am at home and 4am here. So sleep deprived I am.

Hyderabad so far is like most Asian cities I have visited, noisy, polluted, grotty.  And fascinating.

I am doing my first ever couch surf and caught an auto to Vani’s house.  An auto looks like the offspring of a fling between a motor scooter and a 1970s mini minor panel van.

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They nearly always have an abundance of people in and hanging out of them.  The only vehicles carrying more people are the motor scooters, but that is another post topic.

I have already noticed an Indian cultural trait.  A reluctance to admit you don’t know, especially when it come to directions.  And my auto driver was another fine example.  He waggled his head and assured me he absolutely knew the place, and we agreed on a price.

In the end I think he spent more time stopped and asking people for directions than he did actually driving.  And this is a good thing for road safety statistics.  Talk about calling out the bluff of other drivers… yikes.  A u-turn into oncoming traffic? No worries.  Turn a corner without even looking? Of course. 

Everyone honks all the time, but unlike back home where it means Get The Fuck Out Of My Way Arsehole, here it seems to mean “watch out, I’m near you”, with ‘near’ being an understatement.

But he got me here and already my first couch surfing experience is awesome.

I walk in and am made instantly welcome.  The apartment is packed with about 10 twenty year old guys all making statues of Ganesh out of clay to sell for Ganesh  Chaturthi, the big festival I am heading to Mumbai for.

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They are going to be selling them somewhere tomorrow and I am going along to help.  Instant cultural immersion.

Vani is already on the case with details about an overnight bus to and organising a bed in Bangalore, has my next couple of days planned and is just wonderful.

She speaks excellent English, but most people don’t speak much at all which is a bit of a surprise, and my Hindi sucks or should I say mera hindi kharab hai.

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Follow along

Since my last post I have had several more pieces of advice offered both verbally, by email and on Facebook.  A couple of them have actually been good ideas and will be taken on board.  Thanks for all of it, it is better to have too much info, including some that you don’t need than to wish someone had suggested something like pre-register to book on Indian trains (which I have now done) and they hadn’t.

It is time to give a bit of a picture to the trip and here it is…

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I pretty much explained the rather loose plan here and I keep hearing about cool things to do and see along the route.  Please feel free to add more in the comments, all ideas considered.

Why arrive in Hyderabad?  With a fare of only $330 or so it was pretty hard to resist.

It is interesting to note how the to-do list keeps getting longer at the same time as the amount of time left is getting shorter.

But at least I managed to finish Breaking Bad before I left.

The top image was taken by my son Taj.  It is quite intriguing and when you realise the secret it will make sense.

 

I’m listening…

I have received plenty of advice and I appreciate it.  Especially from those who have ventured to the Indian subcontinent before me.

Information is best shared so this is a collection of advice offered to me *.

  • Travel by train whenever possible and take Sleeper Class
  • Eat vegetarian cooked food , avoid salad.
  • Street food is fine
  • Visit the Taj Mahal as early as possible in the morning. Do this by staying in Agra the night before
  • You will get sick , you will get better.
  • Try not to get bitten by a rabid dog
  • Get over it and stop being such a wuss. What happened to the spirit of Crocodile Dundee?
  • Don’t leave Chaitrali Mahanwar hanging! Let her know if you still want to stay. (Auto response from CouchSurfing)
  • You can basically buy anything in the world at an Indian pharmacy
  • Travelling light – did you hear about the guy a few weeks ago who fainted at the airport because he had like 4 layers on, trying to avoid being overweight with his carry-on?!
  • Allow 1 more working day for receipt of your visa
  • Take care!
  • Remember  – the worst experiences at the time, make the best stories later
  • Wash your hands at every opportunity
  • Don’t forget to view our handy travel insurance claims guide
  • Don’t forget every bank-note is contaminated with all sorts of lurgies. Think about BUYING food then eating it without implements
  • from 18 Nov to 25 Nov there is India‘s biggest tribal fair near to Jaipur at Pushkar.  it would be your life time opportunity to experience this fair.. I am planning to attend this fair. Can help and guide you If you’re interested in it
  • Varanasi has one of my favorite stepwells, hidden in the city, you’ll probably need to keep asking, it’s surrounded by temples: LOLARKA KUND also known as CHARAN GANGA…really amazing.
  • Go to the Red Fort (in Delhi) and hunt for the baoli

This is all very useful information that I have taken to heart.  No doubt you have some advice that isn’t on the list yet.  Please add it as a comment.

I hope this list will benefit not only me, but any one else who stumbles on this blog.  I found the writing of other people useful, I can only do my best to keep the information flowing.

I will add this advice of my own:  Do not pay much attention to the guru in the image 

* These are all genuine.

Travel light

Carry on luggage only.

That has been the other plan since the start and it should be doable.  I can always buy clothes if I need more.

Someone came around for a meeting today and he offered dire warnings about getting sick.  In fact every single book, website, person and pharmaceutical company rep guarantees that you will get sick in India. I am ready.  But that is for another post.

As he was leaving I pointed out the pile of things I have laid out in preparation.

Let me rephrase that.  I pointed out the pitiful pile of things…  I confess to being kind of shocked at how little there is…so far.  But I am sticking with the plan, less than 7kg and just carry on.

I have an image of reducing the weight of my too heavy pack by wearing every item of clothing, including my sleeping sheet thingy wrapped around me like a very butch sari.

I could pull it off...

 

That should get me an empty seat on either side.

Getting to India…and home

It was about 18 months before the start of this trip that I decided to go.  Most unlike me, I tend to come up with an idea and do it ASAP.

Found bargain flights on Air Asia.  About $AUD550 return from the Gold Coast.  But I have been paying for it since as they bombard me with emails offering insurance, hire cars, food and paying $19 for the privilege of moving to the seat next to the one allocated to me.

I figure that flying on September 11th will mean that there will be enough empty seats to stretch out on.  In my case, two is plenty 😛

Let me through, don't you know who I am?