places – Page 5 – Travels

Deep fort

Posted on October 9, 2015 by Steve

Despite my policy of saying Yes, there is a time I tend to say No. Getting off a train and being confronted by auto drivers and various other touts and hasslers. I brush past them saying No, acting like I know what I am doing and where I am going even though I usually have absolutely no idea.

Similarly in Jodhpur, Rajasthan. Out of the station and headed off in an arbitrary direction to find a hotel. I didn’t do very well and had walked for about half an hour when an auto driver approached me. Being away from the hustle of the station I asked if he knew a hotel and of course he did.

Rooftop next door to hotel, I think these were Papagena drying

Rooftop next door to hotel, I think these were Papadams drying

Perhaps it is owned by his uncle, who cares, if it is a decent place that is all that matters. We head off down the main road, turn down a smaller road, into a dusty laneway and into a smaller dustier laneway if that is possible. I am not optimistic that this will turn out well…but based on my past experiences you already have an idea of the outcome.

Clock Tower Jodhpur

He leads me into the Discovery Hotel, a hole in the wall, the foyer is nothing special. Raj the manager is a good doppelganger for my friend Giri, a big smile, friendly, welcoming. He leads me 3 floors up a narrow, steep flight of stairs, 2 days after my Palitana climb this is torture.

But it is well worth the pain. The quaintest, cutest, best maintained hotel I have seen and just outside my room, a stunning view of Jodhpur Fort, just Rs500 ($10). I say I will take it.

It was small, but it was beautifully decorated, and that view…

Raj is a smart bastard. In a classic “would you like fries with that?” manoeuvre he says “let me show you another room”, we go up a couple more painful steps, around a corner and the room is more or less the same until he throws open a window and there, looming over the hotel is the fort. For an extra Rs300 I am a sucker and upgrade before I have even signed in.

View from my window

To cap it, there is a roof top restaurant that has 360° views over the Blue City and all the major tourist points Jodhpur has to offer. Not that I have been doing it tough, but this is bliss.

There is something about Jodhpur that elevated it to Favourite City So Far status. The local bazaar is crazy busy, the city is relatively clean, the architecture visually compelling, incredible historical stuff. Bliss.

Tour guide whose services I declined, despite taking his photo (with permission of course)

My first tourist indulgence I hire an auto for a few hours at 1/3 the price quoted on the street the previous day. He takes me to Meheganar Palace,

The Maharajah’s palace, I wasn’t invited upstairs for tea

Maharajahs’ cremation place and tombs

Tombs of the Maharajahs

and of course the Meheganar Fort where as usual, foreign tourists pay 10x the entry fee of locals.

But it does included an audio guide, exactly the sort of thing I usually resist and in another surprise, it turns out to be pretty good. Some great background and pointing out features that the average punter would have missed e.g. at the approach to the huge iron main gate there is a right angle turn so that attacking elephants couldn’t get a good run at it, they wouldn’t have wanted to anyway, at elephant head height it was studded with very nasty looking spikes.

This is all carved sandstone in Meheganar Fort

On the way back to the hotel my attention was caught by an open space that I couldn’t see into because of a low wall. Open space is pretty unusual in india and I was a bit intrigued by whether it might be a baoli or stepwell. See this post for background. I still don’t understand what made me curious, some sort of intuition? There was nothing at all to indicate anything special. I kept track of the route the auto took and it was effectively one straight street and not far.

A 10 minute walk back, as I approached I noticed a couple of tourists and a guide leaving, now I was very curious. Up 2 or 3 steps and my breath was taken away by the first full on baoli I have seen.

Jodhpur baoli or stepwell

Read the article linked to in the last post for more about these incredible structures. This was just awesome and now I am more determined to hunt them down, I have heard of one in Jaipur, where I am heading tomorrow.

Tricky to photograph and capture properly

Off to Pushkar on a 0700 train meant being vigilant about getting enough sleep and waking early enough. I had just dozed off when there was some thumping music in the street below and a peek out the window showed a crowd forming.

I’m sure this happens at 10PM every night on every street

That’s enough for me, clothes on, grab camera and into the throng. I had no idea, but it wasn’t hard to work out that this rather wooden looking guy was getting married.

My bucks night was never this much fun.

The procession continued, I tried to get back to sleep.

And the post title? A hat tip to HHGTTG (no spoilers in comments!)

3,300 steps to heaven

Posted on October 8, 2015 by Steve

I am so far behind on this blog, but I have so lost track of time I can’t tell. There are going to be things out of order, but that doesn’t matter does it? For now I think I will just jump to Palitana.

It’s a relatively small place, about 15,000 people but the one thing it does have going for it, apart from a wonderful couch surfing (CS) host, is the most important temple complex in the Jain religion.

It is a long way up, it is hot. Don’t attempt this if you can’t start by 0800 😛

Sorry, you are going to have to do you’re own research on where Jainism fits, best I can tell is that it is sort of related to Hinduism. The most obvious thing about Jainism is their diet. As well as vegetarian, they eat nothing that grows below the ground – onions, garlic, ginger, potatoes. It has to do with valuing all life, including microbes in the soil. However they do eat peanuts because they were in their shell. I did say you would have to do your own research

Dashiki and good family are Jain’s and suggested Palitana and the. temple complex. This place is not for the weak of body or spirit. It is at the top of a mountain and there are 3,300 steps leading up there.

This is one way to get to the top

Of course if you are weak of body or spirit you can hire either a two man or four man team of porters to carry you up and many people do because this is an important pilgrimage, so they will do what it takes to get to the top.

It is a long climb, it took me about 90 minutes going slowly but steadily, zig zagging up the steps at a 45° angle to make it a little easier. Also it is hot, I started at 0730 in the cool of the morning, I don’t think you’d want to get going much later than that and expect to survive.

2,700 down, 600 to go

A couple of months ago I discovered step wells via this story. I contacted Victoria and she sent me some info about them in big cities. So it was cool to discover several step wells on the way up the mountain.

A very basic stepwell, maybe it is technically a tank, watch future posts for spectacular versions of this

I think I mentioned that 3,300 steps is a long way, and to paraphrase my Indian friend Ashok “Travelling India is an exercise in endurance, but the rewards are worth it”.

This is not a temple, it is a complex of around 1,300 temples according to my CS host who also happens to be a tour guide – but was unavailable the day I went up. Did you read my way of relating the Ganesh festival to any festival you have been to? Do something similar for any Indian temple you have seen, multiply it by a very big number to get the awesomeness level of this place.

More than once I was on the verge of tears I was so moved by the vastness and beauty of the carvings. Because I was playing tourist rather than pilgrim I had more “freedom” to wander, so after seeing the very crowded temples and people doing their devotions, I went into the quiet areas where I could sit away from the hustle and just look.

Most areas photography is not allowed unfortunately.

The biggest temple, Sonji Tuk was actually the quietest. The importance of a deity doesn’t seem to relate to the size of the temple. But this one had something special, the most beautiful painted dinner ceiling. I asked and was allowed to lie on my back and just look at it for a long time. A priest thought I was sleeping and wanted to move me along, but a guard explained and all was good. I could have laid there for hours and can’t share photos because it is prohibited.

Barat suggested an hour would be enough, 3 hours later I decided to head back down. By this time it is 1200 and really hot.

[Update] this was another draft, in an effort to catch up I will finish here with a few annotated photos.

One of Bharat’s friends owns a gym. Though not much by western standards, it could still turn out boys who like to strut their stuff

Mava (pron. Mawa) is a beetle nut mixture that when combined with limestone gives the user a buzz. I tried the non-limestone version, Pan, and didn’t last long with the intense flavours. Bharat’s father used to own this Pan stand, it was pretty funny when a customer walked up and started ordering in Hindi.

Me sitting in on one of Bharat’s English classes. Needles to say, once more I was honoured guest.

Always moving forward

Posted on October 8, 2015 by Steve

Do you know what Couch Surfing (CS) is? Essentially people who have a spare bed or some couch space will accept guests for a night or 3. International travellers are the most popular guests for obvious reasons.

You contact potential hosts in your destination via the CS app and request to stay. Based on your profile, your request and past references plus their availability, they will either decline or if you are lucky, they will accept. In Maroli my CS hosts have been Darshil and Dhruvi and their extended family. In a pair of large adjoining houses 13 people from 4 generations interweave their lives in a way that is very different to family life as most of us would know it.

Darshil's family with the delightful Nani

Darshil’s family – the women, anyway – with the delightful Nani

Describing the lifestyle and seeing it from my cultural context it is conflicting on how to write about it without appearing critical or insensitive. So any Indians reading this, please understand that I am just trying to explain how it is to my family and friends.

This woman has worked in Darshil’s family Ayurvedic pharmaceutical business for 32 years. She would also do jobs around the family home.

No matter where I am staying, I do my best to be a good guest. For me that means helping out where possible, cleaning up after myself, maybe cooking a meal, washing dishes, whatever…it is about contributing to the household rather than being a burden.

That is really tricky here. In the Indian culture is a strong delineation between women’s roles and men’s. To put it bluntly the men are pretty much waited on hand and foot by the women…I find it a bit uncomfortable. It is a battle to take my used plates to the kitchen, Indian culture expects me to just leave them on the table – but that is really hard for me to do. The women have served us men at the table and when we are done, then they all sit on the kitchen floor and eat. Indian culture, I remind myself.

It doesn’t show so well in a photo, but these were decidedly creepy. Nice outfits though 😛

But what a wonderful family. Darshil is the head of the house, his father died 3 years ago. Also living in the house are his wife Dhruvi, his sister-in-law and her two children, his mother and his grand mother. There is also assorted staff that seem to come and go.

Just like with my children, I am not averse to picking a favourite and my clear favourite is Nani-Ji, grand mother. She is gorgeous to look at, has an obvious sweet and gentle nature, is as playful as you can be without speaking English and is an amazing cook.

You know that there are hundreds of varieties of rice, right? I could SD the difference, but no idea what you would use each type for.

You know that there are hundreds of varieties of rice, right? I could see the differences, but no idea what you would use each type for.

Oh how I could go on about the food. Every meal is a different set of delights, all home made (by the women of course) and the food just keeps coming in a seemingly endless supply (while we men sit and eat).

Without making a big deal of it, Darhsil and his family run a very successful Ayurdevic pharmaceutical business and have homes and lifestyles that are good by any standard and luxurious by Indian standards. We spent a bit of time at the Nahar Phrmaceuticals factory that produces over 500 different tablets, pills, potions and no doubt poultices. It is interesting to see how the production process ranges from automatic pill press machines to a group of women sitting on the floor hand checking thousands of pills for faulty ones.

Maybe there isn’t a lot of choice, but for me, someone who lives in the middle of very quiet bush, the location of the houses is a little odd. The front doors are less than 50 metres from a busy railway line that has either a local or express train pass every 10 minutes or so, and they all blow their whistles because there is a crossing 100m down the track.

Perhaps the location is for the amusement value of the AM and PM commuter trains, I have finally seen a real life “people on the roof of a train”. They were hanging out the doors, standing between carriages on the couplings, crazy stuff. I have a video but am not ready to risk my luck uploading it, just happy to have internet for now.

I am leaving Maroli this evening for Palitana, I will save the information about Palitana for a future post, you can spoiler via Google if you like.

Earthenware water pots for sale

And the title of this post? Darshil is very superstitious, every time he starts his car and is going to reverse out of the house, first he drives forward a bit. It made me laugh every time.

[Update] the draft of this was written about a week ago, it has taken that long to be able to upload images.

Holy Parvati!

Posted on September 28, 2015 by Steve

This post is stale before I even got to publish it. Read it maybe for background, but the next one is the real story here.

The title loosely translates to Holy Mother Of God, in this case the God is Ganesha.

Like the music surrounding this festival, I might have been banging on a bit about Ganesh Chaturthi. Once I discovered it and that the festival was happening while I am here it has been a constant theme, from the day I arrived.

Ganesh Chaturthi 2015

Down every other street and lane there is a brightly decorated statue of Ganesh, some big, some small, some like the main ones here in Mumbai are huge!!! The festival ends today with the statues being taken and immersed in water to dissolve, here it is at the beach and I am hoping to get there.

That I am able to cope with the crowds and lack of respect of personal space is nothing short of miraculous in itself. I tend to avoid crowds, I don’t like the jostling much. But here I have managed to mentally detach a bit and remind myself I am on an adventure and that makes it mostly bearable.

A Rs50 ($1) taxi ride to a wall of people and traffic saw me take pity on the driver and jump out before we actually got to Laulbag Raja. There is nothing I can think of to compare this to so you will get a sense of the volume and visuals of this place. People everywhere, 2 of the 3 road lanes are closed for pedestrians making the traffic even worse. There are strings of flashing lights leading to all Ganesha, but they have exceeded themselves in this area. The area is floodlit, there is live TV showing the festivities, hawkers everywhere, police and army just hanging around, barricades to funnel people in a general direction. There is obviously some sort of order in the chaos as it all seems to flow, but it is madness.

I hadn’t come all this way to not go in boots and all so I stood in a not too long line (30 mins) to get in to one of the Ganesh idols. I took the easy line where I just passed through the room caught a glimpse and then ended up in sideshow alley.

While I am making a bit light of my experience, this is also an intensely spiritual time and experience for every other person there – I seem to be the only westerner. The other line would have been a couple of hours long and funnelled people to the feet of Ganesha to touch them and have their wishes granted. There is a lot of puja happening and given the situation people are remarkably patient.

One thing I am good at is getting the most out of a situation and when we were being pushed through quickly I did a mix of ignorance/bold tourist/curious onlooker/friendly short guy/try to be inconspicuous and managed to spend a fair bit of time watching and videoing. I am sure I wasn’t supposed to wander into this area but no one stopped me so you get to see what was involved. Of course video never does reality justice.

In fact the whole experience was quite amazing. The idol is huge and georgeous despote being garishly decorated (they all are), the atmosphere is electric, and although there is conflict between keeping moving and wanting to stop, people are in a generally good mood.

I am not 100% certain of the setup but I think there is a number of big Ganesha in the area. I wandered into another fast moving line that went into a big room that was your theme park nightmare. You know how you see a ride and there is about 50 people in line so you get on the end and make your way forward and then you realise that around the corner is that sneaky hidden snakey line with about 200 people? Well around this corner was that sneaky hidden snakey line that I guess would have held at least 2,000 people…no kidding! But it was empty right now and it led to this gauntlet…note the queue on the right.

When I got to the main body of people I just couldn’t do it. There was just too many people too jammed together, but like Ikea there is no obvious exit. Going with the flow of people was one thing, imagine going against it. By the ti!e i got out I was in overwhelm, I turned my hearing aids off, had a sugar hit and walked the few Km back to my hotel where a cold shower was such a relief – and I hate cold showers.

The hotel has let me use a computer and finally I have fast internet [update: ‘faster’ internet]. Meanwhile this is random Mumbai.

Beautifully adorned woman sitting waiting for a train. It was OK to take a photo of her foot, as long as I also took a photo of the whole family :o)

The Gateway Of India monument

The India Railways building at Central Station

I don’t even want to know…

Beach culture

Posted on September 25, 2015 by Steve

Today I lied, a lot. Likely not as much as our former PM but it was for the same reason, survival.

Hark back to the last post and the image of the woman working with the fish, I said I don’t know her story. I do now. He name is “Sally” and she is one member of a group of 5 very persistent young women who wanted to give me a henna tattoo and sell me some jewellery.

Multi skilled: Henna altitude, jewellery seller, fish stuffer

I wasn’t particularly harassed by them and was enjoying the banter. When they told me their names were Sally, Amy and Nikita I was having none of that and laughing demanded their real names. Not to be outdone, variously I was from Australia, Britain or Japan and my name was Bruce, James or Tomato. I managed to avoid a tattoo by saying my wife would love one but she is asleep. But they were persistent and I had to “promise” with a handshake to not talk to any of the other girls (despite them working together) and when I said “no promise” and shook there was much laughter and the claim that by shaking hands I had promised.

There was a temptation to take their photo as they were gorgeous and had great energy, but these women were skilled and persistent and it would have cost me a small fortune no doubt.

I made it very clear that I wasn’t going to buy anything but we were all laughing so they hung around me for a while. Perhaps they were still hopeful, perhaps they were enjoying the game.

I saw them make quite a few sales and watched them apply some tattoos and as I was leaving the beach I bumped into them also leaving, “Did you sell much?” I asked “nothing” was the reply :o)

Some shore birds I think we’re taking a migratory break on the Goan coast

The beach at sunset is an event that makes it worthwhile for the girls to work the crowd. It is the off season but still hundreds of people gather to take selfies as the sun sets.

Not your average Aussie beach mob

I was trying to put my finger on what was odd. Was it that, according to someone I spoke to, swimming is forbidden? Paddling is fine but that wasn’t what was niggling me. Then I realised that it looked like a scene from a 1900’s beach. Even in the water women were all fully clothed, men mostly wore a singlet and long pants. Hardly anyone was showing any skin.

This is me not taking a sunset selfie

There was no sun worshipping, sitting on a towel, just relaxing or anything like that. Everyone was standing, or if they were in the water, sitting in the shallows. They seemed to be having fun, but it was vastly removed from the Aussie beach experience.

A few days ago, when we stopped for tea on the ferry trip, there was a bunch of men standing around watching 4 guys playing what looked like gin rummy. They all said hello and I thought it was time for a bit of risky fun. I took this photo of one guy’s hand and then went and showed the photo to one of the other players.

When they realised what I was up to they all laughed hard, except the cards holder, he was puzzled, but ended up laughing. I hope it wasn’t the state championship or something, why else would 10 blokes be watching 4 others play cards?

Coming up to 2 weeks here I though I would share some lessons learned.

I brought one pair of shoes too many. I brought one pair of shoes. Sandals are more than enough.
Despite dire warnings, I didn’t need the UV water purifier. Filtered water is available everywhere for about 40c a litre, this is because most Indians won’t drink the tap water either. Just a shame it is all in plastic bottles.
Google maps is the best thing on the internet after porn. I have a local SIM and hardly use the phone, but those maps are fantastic.
Allow plenty of time for everything. This is a holiday so I refuse to be in a hurry, but I allow 2 hours for something I expect to take 30 minutes e.g. get to the train station
In addition to saying “yes” saying “hello” is good too. It leads to unexpected surprises.
Your data management strategy (photos) will be modified as you go. It will be painful, it still may not be ideal.
Tablets are good for consuming content, e.g reading emails or viewing web pages, but are pretty horrible if you want to create content or run a business.
You won’t have all the electronic connectors and bits you need e.g. a USB card reader to upload photos, just buy them.
Maybe it’s just me and is likely too much information, but you really don’t need to bring your own toilet paper. If most of the world can live without, so can you. There is a well established system already in place.

And of course, what would an Indian beach be without cricket.

They didn’t believe I am Ricky Ponting

Feels like Goa

Posted on September 24, 2015 by Steve

Not all the advice I get turns out perfectly. Someone mentioned that on trains to get a side berth as they are a bit more airy. No, they aren’t. Also compared to regular berths you sleep along the train (vs across) which means that the train rocks you side to side instead of head to foot. Throw in a scheduled 0400hrs arrival in Madgaon and it was not a good night.

An alarm for 0345 worked and I was delighted to discover the train was an hour late…oh precious sleep, you flash by in the night. Even if you know a place, arriving there way too early is a drag, but arriving in a town you didn’t know existed until a few days ago adds a degree of difficulty. Despite my better judgement I ask a taxi driver to take me to a hotel and I end up at a quiet little place (I’ll leave the description at that, it sounds almost romantic) in Colva Beach.

Here is the entire entry that has since been removed from Lonely Planet

If it’s a beach paradise you’re after, you’ll likely be disappointed with what’s waiting to greet you in Colva. A large concrete roundabout marks the end of the beach road and the entrance to the beach, and is filled with daytrippers and listless hawkers. The main beach drag is lined with stalls and shabby cafes; sure, it’s got all the material needs you’re seeking, but as far as atmosphere goes, it’s sorely lacking. Still, it makes a decent break if you’re pottering along down the coast, or are in need of a water-sports fix.

It is a tired place and during the off season (monsoon time) there is a feeling of a town trying just that bit hard to make a go of it.

Then there is the beach itself which is why people come. It is long, lined with coconut palms, and the ocean stretches out to the west. It doesn’t quite compare to Pacific Island beaches but it is lovely to take long walks along. And on long walks the surprises happen.

Not sure of her story, but she looked awesome

Even cows like this beach and let's not talk about the countless scrawny dogs, all over the place — Even cows like this beach and let’s not talk about the countless scrawny dogs, all over the place

I timed an afternoon walk to coincide with sunset and there he is again, Ganesh this time the end result of all the celebrations, he is immersed in the ocean.

All you have to do is look interested and people happily include you.

I’ve had not much appetite the last couple of days, yesterday only ate 2 bananas. Had a light breakfast and was peckish at dinner but only wanted a small meal. Yeah, right…

Lights, Camera, Bollywood

Posted on September 22, 2015 by Steve

The ferry captain from Kollam had kindly arranged a hotel room for me, perhaps it was owned by his uncle, but who cares. They met me at the ferry with a sign “Stephen Davis Australia”. This was a smart move in case there was another Stephen Davis on board.

When I walk into the office, I am greeted by “‘ow’s it going mite”, the broadest, thickest Australian accent I have ever heard, that it was coming out of the mouth of an Indian was incredible.

Master of the Aussie accent

Meet Dileep, an English teacher from Bangalore (did I get that right Dileep?). His mastery of the Aussie accent puts me to shame and I consider engaging him for lessons. Over dinner and breakfast he also shares his cockney accent which is actually better than his Indian accent. But I outdo him with my American accent and can see that he will go and watch many John Wayne movies to hone his to perfection. Great meeting you Dileep (he said he would look forward to reading about himself).

There's a strong communist sentiment here.

Stencil graffiti. There’s a strong pro communist sentiment here.

The title of this post was a toss up between what I went with and I Met The Devil And He Drives A Bus From Kollam To Kochi. You know that fine line between incredible skill and sheer luck? This bus swerved from one side of that line to the other for a couple of hours, overtaking and undertaking everything in its path, that there may not be room wasn’t important. This guy was alpha bus driver and I didn’t even know there was such a thing. But again, he lives, so unless he really is the Devil, he is doing something right.

Fort Kochi is quite a historical place and by Indian standards is quite quaint. The walk along the promenade is a pretty popular tourist destination for Indians and can best be described as your typical tourist trap.

I have anchored spelling mistakes, after all English is not their first language. But this one was too funny

I have avoided joking about the countless spelling mistakes, after all English is not their first language. But this one was too funny

Having said that, seeing where the Kerala Backwaters flow out into the ocean was pretty interesting and I did enjoy some hot peanuts and a fruit juice a the sun went down.

But as has already happened every day, there is some sort of serendipitous fun along the way to the planned destination.

While unpacking and showering, there were intermittent drums not far away. They were just that bit too intermittent to work out exactly where they were coming from. Lucky me, they started again just as I ventured out and I found myself in a park with what I thought was some sort of celebration. Well it was, but it was being faked for a movie camera, and I then noticed the typical production detritus all around. I have no idea what they were shooting and I don’t think it qualifies as Bollywood, but who cares.

I watched a couple of takes which basically was a bunch of dressed up characters and people with colourful props being excited and dancing and being joyous as they paraded past the camera.

If you know me, you know that I am up for anything, so I asked if I could join in and was, as usual, ushered to the very front. A handful of other westerners were watching and they joined in. With colourful props in hand we excitedly danced joyously past the camera and although we’ll likely end up on the metaphorical cutting room floor, it was a blast.

Almost a Bollywood starlet. No, I did not make the balloon hats on the women. But I did turn one into a dog which impressed everyone :o)

One of the missions in Kochi was to visit the company that does tech support for the 123host.com.au server. A ferry across the river and a tortuously bumpy 30 minute auto ride funds me out the front of a pretty flash new looking building. Also outside the building are about 10 staff members and they aren’t having smoko, they are there to greet me, one even has a bunch of flowers for me.

The Support Monk team

It was good to meet the people who I count on when something goes wrong and I was delighted to discover they aren’t fly-by-nighters. The owner and I talk, it gets awkward when we run out of things to talk about so we play table tennis, then the tortuous return journey is repeated. While I appreciate the gift, I give the flowers to auto driver for his wife.

You know, I could get used to this honoured guest thing.

Spice seller

Making a Masala blend. I had to break his heart and try to explain I didn’t need 5kg of spices.

Just received an SMS that my train tomorrow has changed from wait list to confirmed! Yay! Goa for two nights then into Mumbai which every one assures me is going to be crazy.

Time stopped

Posted on September 21, 2015 by Steve

A while back, in a Lonely Planet guide to India I read about the Kerala backwaters in the south west. There was lots written about day tours and house boats, but what grabbed me was the chance to catch a two day ferry trip north to Kochi (Cochin).

This plan was a kind of link in my trip, head south west, then by ferry start the trip north taking 3 weeks to get to Delhi. So you can imagine how delighted I was to get to Kollam and find that there is no such ferry.

But this trip is an adventure and on adventures things don’t go smoothly, after all, that’s what makes it an adventure, right?

In fact, despite my disappointment things were going well. My Bangalore Belly was settling down, I managed to get to Kollam, I had another amazeballs experience and I am in India. There is a ferry, but it only goes to Alleppey, takes 8hrs and costs Rs400 ($AUD9), then I can get a bus to Kochi.

Ferry 25. Kollam to Alleppey

There is a temptation to not write about this day, just post pictures of the most incredibly surprising trip. A double decker ferry with about 20 people on board chugging along coconut palm lined canals passing fishing canoes and houses and people and hot and humid.

Impressive number of fishing boats along the way

…and some not so big fishing boats

Towards the end there was a traffic jam of hundreds of houseboats tying up for the evening. They look fantastic but we're pretty expensive to hire, even by Australian standards.

Towards the end there was a traffic jam of hundreds of houseboats thing up for the evening. They look fantastic but we’re pretty expensive, even by Australian standards.

I have more photos but internet is frustratingly slow and as much as I am enjoying writing all this, it is painful Maybe I will add some more later or figure out how to make my Google album public.

Do check out this video of a steampunkish coconut oil extraction factory

And somewhere along the way I took my watch off…

Heading south

Posted on September 18, 2015 by Steve

It’s a big day in India, the start of Ganesh Chaturthi, a 10 day Hindu festival. Originally I was going to avoid Mumbai, but when I read about this festival and how huge it is in Mumbai I decided to go there. Everyone warns me it is crazy.

Did I already mention this in a post? Forgive me if I am repeating but I am not going back to check.

Last night was a bit of a build up as they moved shrouded statues of Ganesh onto makeshift platforms. There are loads of these set up, various sizes and level of decoration. Each one is blocking a laneway, so traffic is a little more chaotic if that is possible.

I had decided to head south today and though I might have picked the wrong night to be on a train, night one of GS. But no fear of missing out. Read on.

Booking a train ticket was much easier than booking on the bus. Same app, but this time it connects with India rail and they don’t mind foreign cards.

The only problem was that the train was apparently full and I am on a wait list with 4 other people. I figure that getting to the station very early to sort it out is wise. I know you are thinking “there is going to be a story here” and there is, but there is a happy ending. Well, there goes the chance for some cliff hangers.

Passive aggressive street seller

I get to Bangalore Cantonment Station and am told that to get myself from wait list to confirmed I need to go to Bangalore City Station (BNC). This is a good train ride test run and despite the ticket only being Rs30 (70c) I could have gotten away without one 🙂 But I will leave it to Americans to be the ugly tourists…speaking of which, where are all the foreigners? I seem to be the only one here.

BNC I line up again and am told to go to DRM ground floor, commercial office for Emergency Quota because there is no Foreign Tourist Quota. Likely because there seem to be no other foreign tourists. I am waved off in a general direction.

Walking generally in that direction, people I ask either waggle their head which I think meant “I don’t want to admit I don’t know” or they continue to wave in a general direction.

A unique commercial collaboration between Sennheiser and Adidas. I am sure it is legit

In that general direction after some back and forth-ing I eventually spot a sign pointing to District Rail Manager – get it? Up to the front door and although the building is open, all the offices are shut up. I am hoping GS isn’t a holiday.

I should add there are no signs in the building indicating what office is where. A few people, including a police officer with a big rifle, point out different places, none of which are right. I wander around outside and a man walking towards the building knows! In fact he seems to be the Emergency Quota man! It turns out I have to fill out a form, but there are none so a hand written copy is fine.

Instructions are to drop it into a box where I was certain it would languish for days. The dice are cast, time to go with the flow. I drop my back pack in the cloak room and start following my nose.

The whole time I am working on Plan B. Can I get a bus to Kollam? No. How much for a bed for the night? Not much. Since I have spoilered this yarn, you know I didn’t need them.

Street wandering is great fun. Food, stalls, people, things. I am drawn to the sound of some drumming and the day suddenly becomes awesome! In a crowded temple something is going on, not sure what but worth investigating.

This kid was excited and going off. The drumming was loud, people inside the temple we doing puja, the atmosphere was pretty electric.

Then there was some shouting and Ganesh is hoisted into the air and taken out to the street. On the way coconuts are smashed on the ground, laps are done of a central structure, drummers are drumming.

Despite being right in amongst it I didn’t feel like I was I intruding or in the way, people were smiling, it was a joyous occasion. Ganesh went in the back of a truck and was driven off, drums still going, drummers hanging out the back. It was a rare treat to see.

One thing Indian Rail does well is manage bookings. You are given a PNR number – I have no idea what it stands for – and it is the key to your booking. You can even SMS the PNR to 138 and it will respond with your ticket status. 1300hrs and I am still wait listed for a 1715hrs train.

Mental note of location made

I have already learned that you have to be bold to get things done, whether it is crossing the road (Steve, will you shut up about roads already) or having your booking status changed.

Back to DRM and in a room the size of our bathroom are three guys, the first thing I noticed was the monochrome computer screen. I don’t think I have seen one since last century.

I give them my PNR and am ready to ask if there is a “fee” when he tells me it is all good. I am in car A1, seat 25. And no fee!

And now I am somewhere heading South. I am getting more confident, just need perseverance. Oh, and despite the wait list, the train had plenty of empty beds :o)

Looking forward to the view as we travel

I haven’t stopped laughing all day:

Went to buy a bottle of water, thought the guy said Rs50, had a money malfunction (stand by) and when I sorted it I discovered it was actually Rs15, between my dodgy hearing and his accent..
When I went to buy Rs50 water all my money apart from about Rs150 was missing from my wallet. About Rs3,000, I hoped someone deserving found it when I dropped it. Went to the ATM got more, was putting the bulk of it in my money belt and found the money I forgot I had put in my money belt.
I am heading to Kollam to catch a ferry through the Kerala Backwaters to Kochi (Cochin), my fellow compartment sharer was puzzled and it took me a while to figure out that the train goes through Kochi on the way to Kollam. [UPDATE FROM KOLLAM] there is no ferry from Kollam to Kochi – thanks Lonely Planet.

Just another day in India

Preparing a Ganesha float

Saying Yes

Posted on September 15, 2015 by Steve

In 1974 I hitch-hiked across Canada to the Montreal Olympics and then over the next many months I made my way back and forth across the USA.

One afternoon in Arizona I was standing by the road and a car load of Native Americans slowed as they drove past and I can still remember hoping they weren’t stopping for me, after all I had my preconceived stereotype of them and I’ll be honest and admit that at a younger age, it wasn’t flattering.

As we drove along they asked if I wanted to hear some singing and I thought they meant the radio. “Sure” says I and they start singing some traditional songs and explain them to me. I was invited to come and stay at their house and being a bit nervous about something or another I declined with an excuse about having to keep moving.

I have regretted that ever since. It might have turned out to be a most wonderful experience, but I will never know.

With that in mind on this trip I am planning to say “yes” to every opportunity.

Ashok, my host is in the travel industry so arranged for a car and driver for the day. Meet Azim who spoke just enough English that we could understand each other. He took me to a some of the tourist sights in Hyderabad and at one point, I was kind of ready to head home and he suggested a temple and I declined, then remembered and changed my mind and said “yes”.

Cameras were not allowed unfortunately as it was a beautiful place made of white marble overlooking the city. Lots of idols and carvings of gods. I got talking to a priest who spoke a little English and was given some holy water to drink. So far I don’t think it has worked, but it was great being included in what all the worshipers were doing.

To the museum, where they have refined the “let’s charge the rich foreign tourist a bit more” rort and taken it to the extreme. Entry is Rs 20 for locals and a bit of a premium for me at Rs 500 and for that I still had to pay extra to take photos (not an uncommon additional fee).

There was a lot to see but the highlight is a statue called Veiled Rebecca. I had to spend quite a bit of time looking from different angles to be certain that it was carved and didn’t have a material veil placed over it. I have never seen anything quite like the way the sculptor has somehow made marble look transparent.

On to Charminar. You are going to have to do your own research on these places, it is worth it. While the traffic has been hilariously incredible, the area around this monument is that image of India that you have seen so often.

The photo doesn’t do any of it justice, the crowds, the traffic, the shops, the structure itself. In fact because we were a little pressed for time today and didn’t have long, I am going to head back there tomorrow by bus to spend a few hours just hanging out.

Hmmm…dosa, Indian fast food

When you are in Hyderabad I highly recommend you eat at the Amat Hotel. We ate there last night and then by coincidence that Amiz stopped there for lunch today…well, maybe not a coincidence since it is popular. When a meal costs Rs 200 ($4.50) I generally don’t think there is going to be a lot of it…but I was very wrong.

There are actually 2 rotis on my plate, it was overwhelming to just look at. Then half way through the meal Vani and I both spotted a waiter walking towards us with a huge bucket of rice and we must have thought the same thing, that he was bringing it to us. As he walked past we both collapsed laughing at just the thought of it being delivered to us. There has been a lot of laughing.

Have you noticed the lack of cutlery. Yep, eating with your hand (right hand only) is how you do it. A pile of rice in the middle of your plate, take one or more of the accompanying dishes, massage it together and with a little practice and some instructions on etiquette it becomes second nature.

And I haven’t even touched on our visit to the Sound and Light Spectacular at Golconda Fort before dinner. I am fitting so much into a day it is hard to believe that was last night…seems like a week ago already.

And to cap it off, Facebook was all abuzz with the long awaited ousting of Abbott. YES!