accomodation – Page 3 – Travels

Under the bodhi tree

Posted on October 28, 2015 by Steve

Many months ago I started reading a book that turned out to effectively be Buddha’s biography. It was pretty dry reading “and then he…and then he…and then he…” none the less I found it really interesting. At about the same time I was forming a plan for this trip and thought “wouldn’t it be cool to visit Bodhgaya, the place where Buddha attained enlightenment?” and here we are.

Unfinished temple, is going to be most spectacular when done.

After many big cities Bodhgaya is quite a bit more relaxed. It is not very big and there are rice paddies about 50m from our hotel. There are, as you might expect lots of Buddhists coming to visit Mahabodhi Temple, the site of the wondrous event and the location of a descendant of the original Bodhi tree under which Buddha was sitting.

Mahbodhi Temple in the location where Buddha attained enlightenment. Likely the most holy place for Buddhists.

Mahabodhi Temple in the location where Buddha attained enlightenment. Likely the most holy place for Buddhists.

Many countries have built monasteries and temples here; Vietnam, Japan, China Bhutan to name a few and while they may not be intentionally trying to outdo each other (are Buddhists competitive?) there are some spectacular buildings, all within walking distance. There are also many, many monks and nuns walking, riding bicycles, motor bikes and autos.

30 metre high Buddha built by the Japanese

The Mahabodhi Temple is a very peaceful place with lots of people praying and meditating. Some walk, some sit, some prostrate themselves. We sat for about an hour just watching people around the tree which seems to be the focus for pilgrims.

Meditating monk passing bodhi tree at Mahbodhi Temple

Meditating monk passing bodhi tree at Mahabodhi Temple. I love this photo. We sat for a long time and this guy was walking slowly around and around the temple, occasionally he would pick up a little train of 3 or 4 followers then they would drop off and he would keep going. We made eye contact a couple of times and he had a lovely gentle smile. I also love that to the left of him is people sitting meditating, to the right of him is people walking, western clothes. For me the photo is a story that I am not sure conveys well if you weren’t there.

There is another focus and that is catching the occasional leaf that flutters to the ground. I had spotted a couple and each time was beaten to them by someone else. It wouldn’t be good form to elbow an elderly nun out of the way over a leaf. Eventually I told a monk I was after one and when he saw one hit the ground he grabbed it and gave it to me. I have a plan for framing it when we get back. Sitting again I saw another come down and this time I was quickest and now had my second leaf, but I had beaten an older monk to it so I gave it to him and the look of excitement on his face was worth it.

Not the same monk ;o)

Neither of us has been 100% well here, Sheila especially so, so on our last day, after she faded badly out in the streets we came back to the hotel where she slept much of the afternoon and I borrowed a bicycle to head into town. Using the road in India at all is quite an interesting exercise, riding a bike when you haven’t been on one for a few years what could possibly go wrong?

In fact nothing went wrong, but unlike me, I did forget the golden rule for getting services of any sort; Negotiate a price first. The seat on the bike was a little high so I stopped at a “bike repair shop” i.e. a spot by the road where someone fixed bikes, and asked the guy to lower the seat about 2cm. At home a 3 minute job like this, mechanic would just say “don’t worry about any money” but this is India so I reckon it would be a Rs5 or Rs10 job. Like I said, I didn’t fix a price up front and the guy wanted Rs50! OK, this is only $1 but that’s beside the point, I had been well and truly cheated and despite him not speaking English, he got my message very clearly and one of the blokes standing around who could speak a little English also passed on my displeasure. I ought to add that the blokes standing around had wry smiles on their faces that I read as “you got done mate, it wasn’t fair, but what did you expect?”. But the bike was more comfortable.

[EDIT] Days later again finally some decent wifi. Jump to photos to fill out the story.

Sheila under the bodhi tree

The main Buddah idol inside the Mahabodhi temple

I was on my bike and noticed all the banners and bunting hiding the street seller stalls. Kept riding, somehow I was unwittingly through barricades and right alongside the Governor of Bihar’s car. No one panicked but they did move me back pretty quick ;o). Then they removed the decorations and the non-existent stalls that the Governor surely knew about anyway magically reappeared.

Cow dung pats used for cooking drying on a wall. This is a really common sight. I am sure the cooking fires are a major contributor to the poor quality of Indian air.

This is a really common sight, cow dung pats used for cooking drying on a wall. I am sure the cooking fires are a major contributor to the poor quality of Indian air.

Tergar Monastry – there a loads of monastries in bodhgaya

Dragon staircase at the unfinished temple above.

For Taj

Posted on October 21, 2015 by Steve

Moving quickly now to try to catch up. Generally, booking trains and buses is really easy using the ClearTrip app on my phone, it will give a range of trips available at a range of prices. Found the perfect bus from Delhi to Agra but could not make the payment work, maybe because it is an international debit card…sigh…

Day 3 and off we go to Agra

But we knew the bus name, from where it left and at what time. A local bus ride to the Sarai Kale Kahn bus station and as we step off into a dusty field with a bunch of food vendors and a few buses some guys shout “Agra” ad indicate their bus. It isn’t quite the Uttar Pradesh Transport Company Volvo, but it is clean, looks comfortable, is half the fare and conveniently it is right in front of us so on we get.

The 4 hour trip wasn’t too bad apart from stopping all stations, sometimes in the middle of nowhere along the express way to pick people up or drop them off. Bizarre thing was that rather than half way, after about 3.5hrs, in sight of Agra they decide to do a food and toilet stop, I can only assume the bus guys get a free feed for bringing in a bus load.

At one point along the way I look out the back window and there it is, the UPTC Volvo, right behind us. Yes it looked more comfortable but we were doing the Real India^TM thing.

The Volvo we didn’t catch

Getting off the bus there was a Rs40 charge for the luggage underneath (they get you coming and going) and the usual bit of a kerfuffle because we didn’t have the exact change. One bloke steps out of the throng of auto drivers that has surrounded us and offers to front the Rs40, we decline and sort it out, but this guy speaks English, has a lovely smile and his ploy works. We hire him to recommend and take us to a hotel. This actually turned out to be a wise move on everybody’s part as after a few laughs along the way and getting into the hotel we book him to do the Agra tourist thing the next day.

Non aggro Agra auto driver.

We always try to arrive in a town early morning if going by train, or with a short-ish bus ride like this one early afternoon. So after settling into the superficially OK but actually mediocre hotel we went for a walk to the railway station on a mission. Often with train tickets the trains are overbooked and you start out on a waitlist. I have never missed a train because a waitlist hasn’t been confirmed, but I do like to stack the odds in my favour. I wanted to try to convert our waitlist into an Emergency Quota tickets or Foreign Tourist Quota (haven’t managed this one yet). The train was booked for our trip to Varanasi, but still not confirmed.

A casual walk along dusty roads, past cows, goats, pigs, dogs, burning rubbish and a kid defecating in the street had us quickly falling in love with Agra. We failed to upgrade at the station and out the front asked an auto driver if he could take us to somewhere we could have a beer. Of course he could , for Rs30 – cheap!

It was cheap because we were conned – it was about a 5 minute walk, if that. The bar was dingy, Sheila was the only woman, but the beer was cold.

Cheers beers with street peanuts

The auto rickshaws are one thing, the cycle rickshaws are something else. These poor buggers work hard for less Rupees because they are much slower. It is not uncommon to see them out and pushing up even the slightest of hills. We caught one back to the hotel, I helped push and offered to cycle for the driver, but it would cost him Rupees (cue laughter).

Rickshaw driver doing it tough on the hill, I got out to make the load a bit lighter.

Next day was the big day, one of the highlights we were looking forward to, the Taj Mahal. Everyone who has been there says that the photos, while beautiful don’t do it justice. We had seen a glimpse of it from a long way off the previous day and it was definitely alluring.

An early start, the heat in the middle of the day is pretty stifling. There is quite a strong security presence, metal detectors, a quick frisking (my favourite part). Actually security is apparently strong in lots of places, but it I reckon it is mostly a sham. You walk through metal detectors that beep, no one cares. People are half watching the screens on the x-ray machines. In the streets or at venues police with sub-machine guns are sitting chatting, paying as little attention to the goings on as possible. If the attack they are there to prevent ever happens, I reckon they will also defecate in the streets.

This cop is good, but we have seen others who would shame him for Movember

Once in, the approach to the Taj Mahal is through the main gate which is awesome in its own right.

No, this is not the main gate, but I love this shot.

I made sure I didn’t peek until I had the full view and they were right, it is a most beautiful building. The whole place is very symmetrical, the layout of other buildings, gardens. Even the Taj Mahal itself is exactly the same height as its width.

As we walked towards it, it dawned on me just how big the building is, something you just don’t get in photos. And it is white, glaring white marble

The main approach to the Taj Mahal – note the size of people standing on the forecourt

It is pretty crowded but not to the point of being annoying. Given that Indians get in for Rs20 compared to Rs750 for foreign tourists it is no surprise that the place is packed.

From there to the Red Fort. Please refrain from “not another bloody fort” comments. Instead you can write “not another bloody baoli” comment because tucked away, behind locked gate but broken fence was this beauty with an octagonal well.

Baoli Red Fort, Agra

Octagonal well at baoli, Red Fort Agra

Next stop, Varanasi

Getting ready for a night time marriage parade. I would love to see this in action.

Delicious Delhi

Posted on October 17, 2015 by Steve

The first four and a half weeks of my trip all had one purpose. To be in Delhi to meet The Sheila when she arrived from the US. We then get to spend a couple of weeks travelling together before heading home,

My timing had been perfect, I managed to arrive in Delhi on the 12th, determined that the hotel was of adequate standard for entry into India and re-entry into relationship, I even booked a car and driver to get to and from the airport. The incredibleness of Google technology* – did you know you can just type a flight number into search and it will give you the arrival time? – informed me that the plane was 30 minutes early and I arrived at the airport and was in position at the arrivals barrier just after the plane landed . *Conditions apply, as you will see^.

Why is it that India (and other places) try to make life so hard for people. Planes full of passengers are arriving and everyone needs to go through customs and immigration and then out to the world, usually with someone waiting to meet them. Instead of a single exit door where it is impossible to miss the arrivee, adding to the excitement of welcoming your loved one there is the tension of three exit doors and a desperate hope that you are standing at the right one. After watching for a few minutes I notice that 80% of people come out of one door so I find myself a spot and wait. And wait. And wait. After an hour of waiting I am not the slightest bit anxious (kidding), after 90 minutes I ask someone who comes out how long it takes to get through and he said about 30 minutes. I keep reminding myself “India time” but am going through scenarios of what to do next.

Of course, there is more than one happy ending that night and eventually, having had to deal with a malfunctioning fingerprint scanner, The Sheila emerged to something rare in India, a public display of affection. The ride home wasn’t too crazy (it was 2300hrs), the hotel was deemed perfect. Off to a great start.

Next day it was time to be tourists, in a different way for me a) I am not alone any more and b) where I am happy to rough it and be adventurous, The Sheila is likely to not be quite the same. I have a day planned, show her the baoli I have discovered and a temple I have heard about. I have used Google maps to work out the buses to catch, what can possibly go wrong^~? There is sufficient awe at architecture, fear at getting on and off buses that don’t quite come to a full stop and admonishment for walking along the road like the rest of the population, but fun is being had.

Off to the Gurdwara Rakab Ganj Sahib Sikh shrine (not quite the right word) I heard about from a couple of Americans the previous day. I have the bus stop name, we are approaching and the vagueness of whether the conductor and people meant “this stop” or “next stop” meant we miss the stop. Meh, not far to walk back. Serendipity time #1 for The Sheila.

We get off the bus and there is a line of people being handed a plate of food. I suggest we get some, “no it is for poor people” Sheila has already figured out. Some people notice our reluctance and invite us to have some food. A plate of curry and a couple of too hot to hold puris and we are ushered to the only two chairs (they kick a couple of guys off) and while I am kind of used to Honoured Guest status, Sheila gets initiated.

Honoured guest after less than 24hrs.

Best I could figure out was this was something to do with a current festival Navratri and the food was not for the poor, it was for everyone and it was really tasty. Again there is a request for a posing for photos, lots of laughter and we walk off shaking our heads in disbelief at our good fortune missing our bus stop.

HOT! puris, straight from oil to hand.

The yummy curry and a bloke who doesn’t mind being in a photo.

There are lots of temples and shrines in India. I mean LOTS. Just about every block will have a temple of some sort and there are smaller shrines all over the place. Approaching we can hear chanting and we take off our shoes a long way from the doors because no one else is wearing shoes. Up the stairs, I cover my head with provided ‘bandana’ and into a not huge space where the floor is covered by a soft carpet. No words are adequate and like most of these places, the photos don’t do justice. A steady stream of pilgrims come in and kneels before the shrine (you read the links above, right?) to do devotion. Meanwhile there is this small group of musicians alternating with a preacher every five minutes. We sat for quite a while, I found the place mesmerising, trying to work out the subtleties of the rituals (I didn’t), people watching and observing the protocols of the “guards”, bit they weren’t really guarding, it appeared more ceremonial.

Dammit, if someone can figure an easy way to upload videos I will add it here…grrr…

On the way out of the grounds there was quite a bit of coming and going from a hall. We asked what was going on, a wedding! If you ask to go in and look is it technically gate-crashing? We were invited to have our photo taken with the bride and groom and it seemed so bizarre we said no. I now regret breaking my “say yes” rule.

She looked soooo excited by what can only be described as an ordeal, a photo shoot with hundreds of people.

Again I am a few days behind and am considering declaring blog bankruptcy i.e. just skip a few days to catch up. But so much happens. I will instead use more photos than words.

Don’t know the story, they were outside the temple. Maybe associated with the wedding…to remain a mystery

^ We had spent the day hopping around on buses and crossed town, heading back a bus that Google maps and the sign at the bus stop said existed didn’t. Beware the mythical 536! We were a bit stuck, people tried to help us, a storm came through, we caught a bus in the wrong direction at a big intersection, got caught in Delhi rush hour traffic (why is it called rush hour when it is so slow?) and after taking 3 hours to complete a 45min trip we collapsed in our hotel.

Chandni Chowk spice market Delhi

While Sheila relaxed in a warm bath, I did a food run for Rs50 ($1) of street momos that was almost too much for us both to eat. Am I a good husband or what?

Not finished. More to write. 7℅ battery left. Publish!

Deep fort

Posted on October 9, 2015 by Steve

Despite my policy of saying Yes, there is a time I tend to say No. Getting off a train and being confronted by auto drivers and various other touts and hasslers. I brush past them saying No, acting like I know what I am doing and where I am going even though I usually have absolutely no idea.

Similarly in Jodhpur, Rajasthan. Out of the station and headed off in an arbitrary direction to find a hotel. I didn’t do very well and had walked for about half an hour when an auto driver approached me. Being away from the hustle of the station I asked if he knew a hotel and of course he did.

Rooftop next door to hotel, I think these were Papagena drying

Rooftop next door to hotel, I think these were Papadams drying

Perhaps it is owned by his uncle, who cares, if it is a decent place that is all that matters. We head off down the main road, turn down a smaller road, into a dusty laneway and into a smaller dustier laneway if that is possible. I am not optimistic that this will turn out well…but based on my past experiences you already have an idea of the outcome.

Clock Tower Jodhpur

He leads me into the Discovery Hotel, a hole in the wall, the foyer is nothing special. Raj the manager is a good doppelganger for my friend Giri, a big smile, friendly, welcoming. He leads me 3 floors up a narrow, steep flight of stairs, 2 days after my Palitana climb this is torture.

But it is well worth the pain. The quaintest, cutest, best maintained hotel I have seen and just outside my room, a stunning view of Jodhpur Fort, just Rs500 ($10). I say I will take it.

It was small, but it was beautifully decorated, and that view…

Raj is a smart bastard. In a classic “would you like fries with that?” manoeuvre he says “let me show you another room”, we go up a couple more painful steps, around a corner and the room is more or less the same until he throws open a window and there, looming over the hotel is the fort. For an extra Rs300 I am a sucker and upgrade before I have even signed in.

View from my window

To cap it, there is a roof top restaurant that has 360° views over the Blue City and all the major tourist points Jodhpur has to offer. Not that I have been doing it tough, but this is bliss.

There is something about Jodhpur that elevated it to Favourite City So Far status. The local bazaar is crazy busy, the city is relatively clean, the architecture visually compelling, incredible historical stuff. Bliss.

Tour guide whose services I declined, despite taking his photo (with permission of course)

My first tourist indulgence I hire an auto for a few hours at 1/3 the price quoted on the street the previous day. He takes me to Meheganar Palace,

The Maharajah’s palace, I wasn’t invited upstairs for tea

Maharajahs’ cremation place and tombs

Tombs of the Maharajahs

and of course the Meheganar Fort where as usual, foreign tourists pay 10x the entry fee of locals.

But it does included an audio guide, exactly the sort of thing I usually resist and in another surprise, it turns out to be pretty good. Some great background and pointing out features that the average punter would have missed e.g. at the approach to the huge iron main gate there is a right angle turn so that attacking elephants couldn’t get a good run at it, they wouldn’t have wanted to anyway, at elephant head height it was studded with very nasty looking spikes.

This is all carved sandstone in Meheganar Fort

On the way back to the hotel my attention was caught by an open space that I couldn’t see into because of a low wall. Open space is pretty unusual in india and I was a bit intrigued by whether it might be a baoli or stepwell. See this post for background. I still don’t understand what made me curious, some sort of intuition? There was nothing at all to indicate anything special. I kept track of the route the auto took and it was effectively one straight street and not far.

A 10 minute walk back, as I approached I noticed a couple of tourists and a guide leaving, now I was very curious. Up 2 or 3 steps and my breath was taken away by the first full on baoli I have seen.

Jodhpur baoli or stepwell

Read the article linked to in the last post for more about these incredible structures. This was just awesome and now I am more determined to hunt them down, I have heard of one in Jaipur, where I am heading tomorrow.

Tricky to photograph and capture properly

Off to Pushkar on a 0700 train meant being vigilant about getting enough sleep and waking early enough. I had just dozed off when there was some thumping music in the street below and a peek out the window showed a crowd forming.

I’m sure this happens at 10PM every night on every street

That’s enough for me, clothes on, grab camera and into the throng. I had no idea, but it wasn’t hard to work out that this rather wooden looking guy was getting married.

My bucks night was never this much fun.

The procession continued, I tried to get back to sleep.

And the post title? A hat tip to HHGTTG (no spoilers in comments!)

3,300 steps to heaven

Posted on October 8, 2015 by Steve

I am so far behind on this blog, but I have so lost track of time I can’t tell. There are going to be things out of order, but that doesn’t matter does it? For now I think I will just jump to Palitana.

It’s a relatively small place, about 15,000 people but the one thing it does have going for it, apart from a wonderful couch surfing (CS) host, is the most important temple complex in the Jain religion.

It is a long way up, it is hot. Don’t attempt this if you can’t start by 0800 😛

Sorry, you are going to have to do you’re own research on where Jainism fits, best I can tell is that it is sort of related to Hinduism. The most obvious thing about Jainism is their diet. As well as vegetarian, they eat nothing that grows below the ground – onions, garlic, ginger, potatoes. It has to do with valuing all life, including microbes in the soil. However they do eat peanuts because they were in their shell. I did say you would have to do your own research

Dashiki and good family are Jain’s and suggested Palitana and the. temple complex. This place is not for the weak of body or spirit. It is at the top of a mountain and there are 3,300 steps leading up there.

This is one way to get to the top

Of course if you are weak of body or spirit you can hire either a two man or four man team of porters to carry you up and many people do because this is an important pilgrimage, so they will do what it takes to get to the top.

It is a long climb, it took me about 90 minutes going slowly but steadily, zig zagging up the steps at a 45° angle to make it a little easier. Also it is hot, I started at 0730 in the cool of the morning, I don’t think you’d want to get going much later than that and expect to survive.

2,700 down, 600 to go

A couple of months ago I discovered step wells via this story. I contacted Victoria and she sent me some info about them in big cities. So it was cool to discover several step wells on the way up the mountain.

A very basic stepwell, maybe it is technically a tank, watch future posts for spectacular versions of this

I think I mentioned that 3,300 steps is a long way, and to paraphrase my Indian friend Ashok “Travelling India is an exercise in endurance, but the rewards are worth it”.

This is not a temple, it is a complex of around 1,300 temples according to my CS host who also happens to be a tour guide – but was unavailable the day I went up. Did you read my way of relating the Ganesh festival to any festival you have been to? Do something similar for any Indian temple you have seen, multiply it by a very big number to get the awesomeness level of this place.

More than once I was on the verge of tears I was so moved by the vastness and beauty of the carvings. Because I was playing tourist rather than pilgrim I had more “freedom” to wander, so after seeing the very crowded temples and people doing their devotions, I went into the quiet areas where I could sit away from the hustle and just look.

Most areas photography is not allowed unfortunately.

The biggest temple, Sonji Tuk was actually the quietest. The importance of a deity doesn’t seem to relate to the size of the temple. But this one had something special, the most beautiful painted dinner ceiling. I asked and was allowed to lie on my back and just look at it for a long time. A priest thought I was sleeping and wanted to move me along, but a guard explained and all was good. I could have laid there for hours and can’t share photos because it is prohibited.

Barat suggested an hour would be enough, 3 hours later I decided to head back down. By this time it is 1200 and really hot.

[Update] this was another draft, in an effort to catch up I will finish here with a few annotated photos.

One of Bharat’s friends owns a gym. Though not much by western standards, it could still turn out boys who like to strut their stuff

Mava (pron. Mawa) is a beetle nut mixture that when combined with limestone gives the user a buzz. I tried the non-limestone version, Pan, and didn’t last long with the intense flavours. Bharat’s father used to own this Pan stand, it was pretty funny when a customer walked up and started ordering in Hindi.

Me sitting in on one of Bharat’s English classes. Needles to say, once more I was honoured guest.

Feels like Goa

Posted on September 24, 2015 by Steve

Not all the advice I get turns out perfectly. Someone mentioned that on trains to get a side berth as they are a bit more airy. No, they aren’t. Also compared to regular berths you sleep along the train (vs across) which means that the train rocks you side to side instead of head to foot. Throw in a scheduled 0400hrs arrival in Madgaon and it was not a good night.

An alarm for 0345 worked and I was delighted to discover the train was an hour late…oh precious sleep, you flash by in the night. Even if you know a place, arriving there way too early is a drag, but arriving in a town you didn’t know existed until a few days ago adds a degree of difficulty. Despite my better judgement I ask a taxi driver to take me to a hotel and I end up at a quiet little place (I’ll leave the description at that, it sounds almost romantic) in Colva Beach.

Here is the entire entry that has since been removed from Lonely Planet

If it’s a beach paradise you’re after, you’ll likely be disappointed with what’s waiting to greet you in Colva. A large concrete roundabout marks the end of the beach road and the entrance to the beach, and is filled with daytrippers and listless hawkers. The main beach drag is lined with stalls and shabby cafes; sure, it’s got all the material needs you’re seeking, but as far as atmosphere goes, it’s sorely lacking. Still, it makes a decent break if you’re pottering along down the coast, or are in need of a water-sports fix.

It is a tired place and during the off season (monsoon time) there is a feeling of a town trying just that bit hard to make a go of it.

Then there is the beach itself which is why people come. It is long, lined with coconut palms, and the ocean stretches out to the west. It doesn’t quite compare to Pacific Island beaches but it is lovely to take long walks along. And on long walks the surprises happen.

Not sure of her story, but she looked awesome

Even cows like this beach and let's not talk about the countless scrawny dogs, all over the place — Even cows like this beach and let’s not talk about the countless scrawny dogs, all over the place

I timed an afternoon walk to coincide with sunset and there he is again, Ganesh this time the end result of all the celebrations, he is immersed in the ocean.

All you have to do is look interested and people happily include you.

I’ve had not much appetite the last couple of days, yesterday only ate 2 bananas. Had a light breakfast and was peckish at dinner but only wanted a small meal. Yeah, right…

Ganesh Galore

Posted on September 12, 2015 by Steve

I’ve had a few things to do to get started. Get a SIM card, power plug adapters, do some repairs (already).

I was looking forward to a good nights sleep after getting to bed at about 1am local time which is about 5am by my body. And sleep well I did, for a while.

Not sure what time the call to prayer at the mosque next door was, but it got my attention. Then at 8am my body decided it was time to wake up, unfortunately it was 8am at home and 4am here. So sleep deprived I am.

Hyderabad so far is like most Asian cities I have visited, noisy, polluted, grotty. And fascinating.

I am doing my first ever couch surf and caught an auto to Vani’s house. An auto looks like the offspring of a fling between a motor scooter and a 1970s mini minor panel van.

They nearly always have an abundance of people in and hanging out of them. The only vehicles carrying more people are the motor scooters, but that is another post topic.

I have already noticed an Indian cultural trait. A reluctance to admit you don’t know, especially when it come to directions. And my auto driver was another fine example. He waggled his head and assured me he absolutely knew the place, and we agreed on a price.

In the end I think he spent more time stopped and asking people for directions than he did actually driving. And this is a good thing for road safety statistics. Talk about calling out the bluff of other drivers… yikes. A u-turn into oncoming traffic? No worries. Turn a corner without even looking? Of course.

Everyone honks all the time, but unlike back home where it means Get The Fuck Out Of My Way Arsehole, here it seems to mean “watch out, I’m near you”, with ‘near’ being an understatement.

But he got me here and already my first couch surfing experience is awesome.

I walk in and am made instantly welcome. The apartment is packed with about 10 twenty year old guys all making statues of Ganesh out of clay to sell for Ganesh Chaturthi, the big festival I am heading to Mumbai for.

They are going to be selling them somewhere tomorrow and I am going along to help. Instant cultural immersion.

Vani is already on the case with details about an overnight bus to and organising a bed in Bangalore, has my next couple of days planned and is just wonderful.

She speaks excellent English, but most people don’t speak much at all which is a bit of a surprise, and my Hindi sucks or should I say mera hindi kharab hai.

I’m listening…

Posted on September 6, 2015 by Steve

I have received plenty of advice and I appreciate it. Especially from those who have ventured to the Indian subcontinent before me.

Information is best shared so this is a collection of advice offered to me *.

Travel by train whenever possible and take Sleeper Class
Eat vegetarian cooked food , avoid salad.
Street food is fine
Visit the Taj Mahal as early as possible in the morning. Do this by staying in Agra the night before
You will get sick , you will get better.
Try not to get bitten by a rabid dog
Get over it and stop being such a wuss. What happened to the spirit of Crocodile Dundee?
Don’t leave Chaitrali Mahanwar hanging! Let her know if you still want to stay. (Auto response from CouchSurfing)
You can basically buy anything in the world at an Indian pharmacy
Travelling light – did you hear about the guy a few weeks ago who fainted at the airport because he had like 4 layers on, trying to avoid being overweight with his carry-on?!
Allow 1 more working day for receipt of your visa
Take care!
Remember – the worst experiences at the time, make the best stories later
Wash your hands at every opportunity
Don’t forget to view our handy travel insurance claims guide
Don’t forget every bank-note is contaminated with all sorts of lurgies. Think about BUYING food then eating it without implements
from 18 Nov to 25 Nov there is India‘s biggest tribal fair near to Jaipur at Pushkar. it would be your life time opportunity to experience this fair.. I am planning to attend this fair. Can help and guide you If you’re interested in it
Varanasi has one of my favorite stepwells, hidden in the city, you’ll probably need to keep asking, it’s surrounded by temples: LOLARKA KUND also known as CHARAN GANGA…really amazing.
Go to the Red Fort (in Delhi) and hunt for the baoli

This is all very useful information that I have taken to heart. No doubt you have some advice that isn’t on the list yet. Please add it as a comment.

I hope this list will benefit not only me, but any one else who stumbles on this blog. I found the writing of other people useful, I can only do my best to keep the information flowing.

I will add this advice of my own: Do not pay much attention to the guru in the image

* These are all genuine.