food – Page 4 – Travels

Always follow the music

Posted on September 19, 2015 by Steve

There’s not a lot to do in Kollam really, though locals might dispute that. The noted sites are things like a clock tower and a shopping mall. There is also another shopping center with an internet cafe that has slow internet and old computers and where you might drop your tablet and crack the screen.

I want a front door like this

I seem to have slipped into a 2 meals per day routine. A late breakfast, then a late dinner. Having a mild case of Bangalore Belly, I decided to be a little more cautious about where I ate tonight. One decent looking place wasn’t vegetarian, an OK looking veg place had about 20 too many fluorescent lights for my liking.

I am wandering the back streets and in the distance there is some music, I follow it to a Ganesh celebration. I am very mindful about trying to observe customs so I remove my footwear and stand at the back. There is loud music and all sorts of rituals not unlike in the video from yesterday, except Ganesh is already in place.

I know that Ganesh is officially the God of removing blocked obstacles, but he also seems to be the God of garish decoration. Fluorescent colours, lots of tinsel, coloured lights, a strobe light – this is extreme decorating worthy of a reality show.

Unfortunately you miss the effect of the strobe light

After a while a couple of boys badly trying to not be obvious, stand near me and check me out. I let them be not very subtle for a while then to their surprise I say hello and shake their hands. A couple more boys wander over, it is all boys, the girls sit demurely with their mothers, at the back of course 😛

I am invited to sit but I prefer standing, I can see more and with my dodgy back I am more comfortable. This is OK.

When I go to take a photo from the back, the intention being to get the whole room and the atmosphere, I am invited, no ushered, up the front. Right to the feet of Ganesh, it is lucky I don’t have epilepsy, that strobe. Then I am introduced to the President of the association the name of which I have no idea. I shake his hand and act honoured to meet him.

Someone suggests we pose for photos in front of Ganesh, how can I refuse, and why would I? It’s like a selfie with God and I understand how celebrities must feel fulfilling their duty. By now the few kids is a group, standing around just checking me out.

Honoured guest with President plus unidentified photo bomber

The priest and helpers have been wandering, blessing people and handing out small amounts of food that I imagine have been blessed also. One is like a rice pudding, the other like a sticky date pudding, they taste great. The group of kids is now a small crowd. There are a couple of bold curious girls. The music is deafening.

A guy who speaks excellent English explains that almost everyone is northern Indian. The south Indians finished Ganesh Chaturthi a week or so ago and this is the northerners getting together to celebrate according to their calendar.

Some of the boys

By now they have asked where I am from and I give my standard answer “Australia, Ricky Ponting” which elicits much nodding of heads. There is also an odd question that is asked regularly, “what is your good name?”. Obviously they are asking my name but I can’t explain what is behind the “good name”. I have already adopted this way of asking others their name.

Guy explains that soon there will be food and I am invited to stay. Of course, following my mantra I say “yes” and I am handed over to what is now a mob of boys who seat me and ask non stop questions. But I can’t hear them as my ears are bleeding from the music.

VIP table

Although I was out looking for food I had already been thinking about how to indicate I only wanted a small meal. Hah! Not here. A couple of curries, some pickle, a papadam, and chappatis. Yum. And it was an endless supply. I ended up having to throw myself over my plate to stop it being refilled.

Chapatti man

I have learned to simplify answers to questions, it is just easier. My bad back is a swimmimg accident at the beach, it might sound Christi, but I am not even going near Ankylosing Spondilitis. I live at Brisbane, but if it is easier, it might become Sydney. My work is as a computer programmer, imagine trying to explain my life as an entertainer.

Guy happens to be a computer student and wonders if he could work for me in Australia. I don’t make any promises I can’t keep and we are going to try to connect on Facebook.

I offer my sincere and genuine gratitude for being made welcome and included, shake hands with each of the boys and head out into the night laughing at my good fortune.

I have only been here a week. What else is in store?

Saying Yes

Posted on September 15, 2015 by Steve

In 1974 I hitch-hiked across Canada to the Montreal Olympics and then over the next many months I made my way back and forth across the USA.

One afternoon in Arizona I was standing by the road and a car load of Native Americans slowed as they drove past and I can still remember hoping they weren’t stopping for me, after all I had my preconceived stereotype of them and I’ll be honest and admit that at a younger age, it wasn’t flattering.

As we drove along they asked if I wanted to hear some singing and I thought they meant the radio. “Sure” says I and they start singing some traditional songs and explain them to me. I was invited to come and stay at their house and being a bit nervous about something or another I declined with an excuse about having to keep moving.

I have regretted that ever since. It might have turned out to be a most wonderful experience, but I will never know.

With that in mind on this trip I am planning to say “yes” to every opportunity.

Ashok, my host is in the travel industry so arranged for a car and driver for the day. Meet Azim who spoke just enough English that we could understand each other. He took me to a some of the tourist sights in Hyderabad and at one point, I was kind of ready to head home and he suggested a temple and I declined, then remembered and changed my mind and said “yes”.

Cameras were not allowed unfortunately as it was a beautiful place made of white marble overlooking the city. Lots of idols and carvings of gods. I got talking to a priest who spoke a little English and was given some holy water to drink. So far I don’t think it has worked, but it was great being included in what all the worshipers were doing.

To the museum, where they have refined the “let’s charge the rich foreign tourist a bit more” rort and taken it to the extreme. Entry is Rs 20 for locals and a bit of a premium for me at Rs 500 and for that I still had to pay extra to take photos (not an uncommon additional fee).

There was a lot to see but the highlight is a statue called Veiled Rebecca. I had to spend quite a bit of time looking from different angles to be certain that it was carved and didn’t have a material veil placed over it. I have never seen anything quite like the way the sculptor has somehow made marble look transparent.

On to Charminar. You are going to have to do your own research on these places, it is worth it. While the traffic has been hilariously incredible, the area around this monument is that image of India that you have seen so often.

The photo doesn’t do any of it justice, the crowds, the traffic, the shops, the structure itself. In fact because we were a little pressed for time today and didn’t have long, I am going to head back there tomorrow by bus to spend a few hours just hanging out.

Hmmm…dosa, Indian fast food

When you are in Hyderabad I highly recommend you eat at the Amat Hotel. We ate there last night and then by coincidence that Amiz stopped there for lunch today…well, maybe not a coincidence since it is popular. When a meal costs Rs 200 ($4.50) I generally don’t think there is going to be a lot of it…but I was very wrong.

There are actually 2 rotis on my plate, it was overwhelming to just look at. Then half way through the meal Vani and I both spotted a waiter walking towards us with a huge bucket of rice and we must have thought the same thing, that he was bringing it to us. As he walked past we both collapsed laughing at just the thought of it being delivered to us. There has been a lot of laughing.

Have you noticed the lack of cutlery. Yep, eating with your hand (right hand only) is how you do it. A pile of rice in the middle of your plate, take one or more of the accompanying dishes, massage it together and with a little practice and some instructions on etiquette it becomes second nature.

And I haven’t even touched on our visit to the Sound and Light Spectacular at Golconda Fort before dinner. I am fitting so much into a day it is hard to believe that was last night…seems like a week ago already.

And to cap it off, Facebook was all abuzz with the long awaited ousting of Abbott. YES!

I’m listening…

Posted on September 6, 2015 by Steve

I have received plenty of advice and I appreciate it. Especially from those who have ventured to the Indian subcontinent before me.

Information is best shared so this is a collection of advice offered to me *.

Travel by train whenever possible and take Sleeper Class
Eat vegetarian cooked food , avoid salad.
Street food is fine
Visit the Taj Mahal as early as possible in the morning. Do this by staying in Agra the night before
You will get sick , you will get better.
Try not to get bitten by a rabid dog
Get over it and stop being such a wuss. What happened to the spirit of Crocodile Dundee?
Don’t leave Chaitrali Mahanwar hanging! Let her know if you still want to stay. (Auto response from CouchSurfing)
You can basically buy anything in the world at an Indian pharmacy
Travelling light – did you hear about the guy a few weeks ago who fainted at the airport because he had like 4 layers on, trying to avoid being overweight with his carry-on?!
Allow 1 more working day for receipt of your visa
Take care!
Remember – the worst experiences at the time, make the best stories later
Wash your hands at every opportunity
Don’t forget to view our handy travel insurance claims guide
Don’t forget every bank-note is contaminated with all sorts of lurgies. Think about BUYING food then eating it without implements
from 18 Nov to 25 Nov there is India‘s biggest tribal fair near to Jaipur at Pushkar. it would be your life time opportunity to experience this fair.. I am planning to attend this fair. Can help and guide you If you’re interested in it
Varanasi has one of my favorite stepwells, hidden in the city, you’ll probably need to keep asking, it’s surrounded by temples: LOLARKA KUND also known as CHARAN GANGA…really amazing.
Go to the Red Fort (in Delhi) and hunt for the baoli

This is all very useful information that I have taken to heart. No doubt you have some advice that isn’t on the list yet. Please add it as a comment.

I hope this list will benefit not only me, but any one else who stumbles on this blog. I found the writing of other people useful, I can only do my best to keep the information flowing.

I will add this advice of my own: Do not pay much attention to the guru in the image

* These are all genuine.