I did some things…

Location: Leaving Jaipur on an overnight trip to a village that apparently has 350 stepwells!

It is worth mentioning that the other day, when I realised the bus into Jaipur was only a couple of blocks from the hotel I was heading for – I track where we are on Google maps – I went to jump off as we stopped at some traffic lights.  The driver said “No get off in street”.  I wish I knew enough Hindi to respond with “Are you the same guy who drove on the wrong side of a divided highway, into oncoming traffic, to get to the restaurant for our 30 minute break?”.  But I don’t.

To continue the “sleeping anywhere” theme.

img_2247

 

I don’t get how anyone could get any sleep on the seat of a cycle rickshaw, on a busy road, in the sun.  But I suppose if you work as hard as these guys do…

Started the day with a sweet lassi at a shop I remember from last time here.  I don’t know what they do differently to all the other lassi wallahs, but theirs are great.  I noted last time and it is worth repeating as it takes some getting used to, that with street vendors you eat or drink and when you are done, then you pay.

I like this because it means I hang around rather than eat or drink and walk.  And when you hang around, invariably someone will talk to you.  In this case it is the guy who owns the restaurant next door.  His English is pretty good and we banter for a while and mentions Australians are very tall, I explain that I am proof that isn’t true. Plenty of laughs.  I tell him I may come back for a meal…I never promise as I never know what will come up.

Crossing the road to walk in the shade the regular stream of auto drivers are hopeful of taking me somewhere, anywhere.  One young guy is quite friendly and wants to practice his English, Mohammed Sam from Afghanistan – sounds like the title of a kid’s book.  When he finds out I am from Australia, can you guess the first thing he says?  “Australians are very tall”.  It makes me wonder if there is some sort of conspiracy afoot.

We agree to meet in the evening for a beer and we end up at a rooftop hotel chatting and enjoying the view and fireworks going off all over.  And then his friend showed up…I think he was really drunk, maybe he was a bit crazy too.  But he was a pain and not entirely coherent.

You know that moment when you have started to trust someone and  enjoy them and suddenly a thought enters your mind “I wonder if these guys are setting me up?” and you can’t unthink that thought.  It was time to bail and Mohammed was actually apologetic for his friend. [Update a couple of days later] Stupid me, I gave him my whatsapp info…he is really keen to take me to a carpet factory…really keen.  I can always block him I suppose.

I have am idea for a dance beat and am collecting photos of the back of trucks for the video. We shall see if it !materialises at all.

I have an idea for a dance beat and am collecting photos of the back of trucks for the video. We shall see if it materialises at all.

I love wandering the streets of whatever city I am in, turning down random lanes and heading wherever looks or sounds interesting.  I was in the old part of Jaipur known as the pink city.  Down a few alleys heading more or less in the direction of a bazaar.

I glanced in a door and couldn’t believe my eyes.

Definitely not a Jewish god

Definitely not a Jewish god

These guys are 2m in length…yeah, yeah, head to toe.  Made of marble, and according to the guy who came out they make them right there, though the place didn’t look dusty enough…but who knows.  There was a couple of guys hand finishing some cast brass temple gods.  Another tortuous manual job, sitting on the floor, steadying the piece with their toes, filing and sanding by hand.  But it was the statues in the photo that pricked my attention.

Jumping all over the place chronologically, after the beer I wandered directly over the road to the restaurant I mentioned earlier.  I was indeed the honoured guest, actually I was the only guest in a 50 seat room.  This being my about my 60th day in India (in total) I have eaten a lot of Indian food.  But the vegetarian jalfrezi they served me was possibly the best Indian meal in my life.  I was glad I couldn’t eat it all so there was some for breakfast.

img_2248

I’m going back there tonight and am faced with a quandary.  Do I have the same again, it was so good, or do  assume all their meals are this good and try something different…only to discover the jalfrezi is their specialty.  Life is so tough. (In the end I was too tired and ate in – still excellent)

This little girl was begging from cars stopped at traffic lights.  My instinct is to give something to kids who are doing something more than just asking for money.  They might be selling balloons or picking up plastic rubbish for recycling or anything, I will give them R10 and not take the balloon (or the plastic).

img_2249

It’s easy to see why she was interesting.  I gave her R10 not planning to take a photo, then changed my mind.  When I asked her to come a little closer, out of the shade, what seemed like an automatic response was to put her hand out for money again 🙁   Then I showed her the photo and the look of surprise was great!  I don’t think she had any idea of the result of what was plastered on her face.

I am sure I have left out some stuff, this was 2 days ago now.  If you have read this far you get to hear the amazeballs story…of the trip most likely, and I have only been gone 1 week out of 5.

A month or 3 ago some how the Chand Baori came into my consciousness and despite baolis being so ‘last trip’ they are still fascinating.  I mentioned to Ajeet, the hotel owner, that I wanted to go, asking how to get there and he suggested a different trip, overnight, inclusive of everything – food, accommodation, snacks, drinks, everything – for R4,000 ($80).

A tour?  I never do tours but it sounded like an idea and we agreed to leave on Thursday.  He has included an Italian and a French woman and the four of us head off…I have pretty much no idea where we are going.

img_2259

I already know one of the things I am looking forward to and that is being able to say “stop here”. In the photo above we have just been given some peanuts by the people harvesting them.

The drive out of Jaipur is an experience in itself dealing with Indian traffic.  Pure insanity, but somehow it all works with no aggression. The trip to Toda Rai Singh where there is a bunch of baoli takes a couple of hours.  One baoli is in very good condition and reasonably popular.  Because we have no real itinerary, we hang there for at least an hour sitting, talking, exploring.

img_2292

This is a different baoli…

Speaking of popular, i feel for my poor female companions.  They constantly attract a following of men tagging along at a distance they might feel doesn’t make their tagging along obvious but only helps to accentuate it.  Fuck creepy Clowns, this is creepy men.  Yeah they are only a little creepy, but I can see how and why it gives the girls the shits.  We even played a little game drawing them from one place to another and back again.

img_2276

This is that baoli ;o)

They mostly don’t hang this close, this was a photo op, but any opportunity to come close to talk to Ajeet is taken. It is funny in a sad way.

We go from here to several other not as spectacular but still interesting baoli in Toda Rai Singh.  There’s also a quite amazing very old temple that was destroyed by one attacking horde or another.  They have taken pieces of the wreckage and built a makeshift structure around the idol.  Why didn’t I take any photos here?

And then to a quiet quiet peaceful temple complex around a lake.  This is the quintessential there is no way photos can do this place justice place.  In photos the pinks aren’t pink enough, they can’t convey the stillness and peace, something so hard to find in India.  We sit for another hour soaking the place up.  Are you getting  a sense of the pace of this trip?

img_2308

By now it is about 4PM and we climb up a pretty rough track to another abandoned temple.  But they aren’t really abandoned.  The structure is often really dilapidated, but there is always some one maintaining the inner sanctum, so to speak.  This will probably be in bad shape too, but more from the many many years of love and devotion to whatever god is represented.

img_2324

To set the scene, it is now late afternoon, the light is beautiful?  See the series of arches stretching to the right?  On top is a pathway that leads out like a huge diving board giving 300 degree views of the city, the other 60 degrees is the temple and the hill.

img_2326

Spectacular?  An understatement.  We sit here watching the sun disappear into the haze before it finally sets, out of sight.  But don’t let me spoil the moment, it is beautiful and we are having the time of our lives. Laughing, exploring, hanging out, interacting as best we can with the locals.  This is an untour of the highest order.

Who thought to put an LED torch in the back of phones?  Thanks.  But for that the trip back down in the dark would have led to a claim on my travel insurance for death or permanent injury.

img_2357

I want to learn how to tie a turban like this. It was standard dress in this village.

Then we head off for the 2 hours drive to Bundi for the night stopping at a roadside restaurant for another great meal, ending up at Visham Hotel with a great host family and the biggest rooms I have seen in India.

Will I break the next day into another post?  Nah, too much to tell.

Breakfast in the rooftop restaurant of Visham includes monkeys scooting past and over the rooftops, views of the fort, cow watching and 2 fried eggs on toast done to perfection…you don’t know tricky it is to get any Western food that doesn’t have a unique Indian touch.  I am reminded of French Toast in Bodh Gaya which was essentially a piece of toast wrapped in a pancake.

img_2336

This man has a little store that sells among other things paan, which is in all those hanging packets.  Paan is made from betel nut leaves and can probably best be described as the Indian version of Red Bull.  I didn’t realise this, I thought it was more about the taste than anything…naive idiot westerner.

At some point during the previous day Ajeet bought some paan and after the initial oral shock of bitterness and something I can’t even name, it became quite a pleasant taste, and there is a gentle buzz.  Apparently it can be addictive, not for me though I am happy I tried it once – I tried it last trip too and couldn’t hold it in my mouth for more than a few seconds.

Are you getting the idea of how this untour is going?

img_2354

We spend the morning touring the fort, including a fantastic tour of the really old paintings in the women’s quarters, with the “caretaker” taking lots of time and giving us wonderfully detailed information about the stories.  It was nice to see that this is all being protected behind lock and key and he was mindful we didn’t touch anything, I hope he is passing on his extensive knowledge.

img_2350

Off we head to the next mysterious location.  Along the way, as well as stopping for chai, snacks and photos, we stop at what I think would be called a bhang shop.  Essentially it is a doorway with a bit of space the size of your toilet room.  Bloke has various sizes balls of pulverised cannabis leaves for sale.  And it seems that is all he sells, another “how on earth does he make a living” moment. Note that this is perfectly legal and government regulated (but how much?) in India.

Ajeet purchases a R60 serving, about the size of a golf ball. For R10 the portion is about the size of a grape.  It is mixed with some buttermilk and flavouring and looks and smells like the average Australian green smoothie – scrumptious.  Being about 11 in the morning I decline my own serve but I have a taste, nothing special but quite salty from the flavouring sachet. Pauline finds it too salty to drink her small glass, about 1/5 the size of a full serve so I gallantly offer to finish it off.

We turn off along a back road worse than most I have seen, deeper we go along an even worse (if that is possible) dirt road until we end up at a barren looking spot with a stream running through it.  I am feeling pretty good by now.

img_2358

This man is a local villager, just finished his washing. You can see the sort of landscape

We walk over to the edge, intrigued by a lush valley we can see below.  And there – we are speechless – is a spectacular waterfall, the last thing I expected to see.

img_2362

We have brought some flowers to give to the holy man at the Bhimlat Mahadev Temple we must pass through as we wend our way to the bottom of the valley.  Had this been smooth going it would have been much easier now that the taste was sneaking up on me.

img_2363

This place was so unexpectedly beautiful it was hard to take in.  On one side the roaring waterfall, on another, the rocky, rubbish strewn path back out, on another side a tranquil lush meandering stream, a complete contrast to the waterfall that was its source.

We had the place to ourselves, apart from the monkeys who apparently liked to pinch bags and things.  We put all our stuff into one bag and then put in on the ground next to a rock and it blended right into all the rubbish (you probably think I am kidding).

img_2362

The water was beautiful to swim in despite the rocks being treacherously slippery and I am still in awe, mostly because it is so out of character compared with the surrounding landscape. By now I am extremely thankful that I didn’t go for the R60 serving if my state of almost complete incapacity was from a small glass.

img_2258

This is our almost last stop, there is still a meal to be had on the way home and by the time we get back it is about 7PM, we’ve been gone a day and a half, great value. I am still cruising.

But more than just good value for Rupees, it is one of those trips of a lifetime…within a trip of a lifetime.  Some things I will never forget and this is one of them.  If you are coming to Jaipur, find Hathroi Tours on Facebook.  You really should do one of the 9 trips on which Ajeet can take you.

20161022_105557-animation

Rishikesh seemed like a good idea, but I would have to go through Delhi.  So instead I leave tomorrow for Pushkar for a few days then to Udaipur for Diwali on Sunday.

I will tempt fate by saying that I haven’t gotten sick at all.  Last time there was an initial WTF? from my guts, his trip it is like “oh, this again”.

And I bought some carpets.

 

So, you think you work hard…

Location: Jaipur

Hotel: Hathroi Palace – one of the cooler places I have ever stayed, anywhere.  And my ego is stroked to excess because the guys who own it remember me and give me a wonderful welcome.

Although I am in Jaipur, there are a few loose ends to tie up from Agra.

The efficiency of Indian Railways is only rivalled by that of the post office.  I have worked out the railways mostly, this is my first experience with India post.

When in Agra last year a Sheroes calendar seemed too heavy to lug around, we regretted it later.  This time I have less space so to keep The Sheila happy I decided to post it from Agra, I also had a letter to mail to a dear friend.

I don’t know how far apart Indian post offices are, but very conveniently there is one about 50m down the road from the hotel.  I guess the entrance should have given me a hint, but I was fooled by the modern looking facade…and a facade it was.

img_2216

As anyone who has visited India will tell you, a scene like this is the norm.

Behind the counter are a man and a woman and lots of paperwork, minimal technology. It looks like post offices are also bank agencies and their manual system of recording deposits takes me back to primary school and bringing in my bank book every week.

It takes about 30 minutes to work out how much 2 items will cost and how to deal with the conundrum of Australian post codes only having 4 digits, but their form has space for 6.

Some scratching of heads and consulting with colleagues – I suggest putting 2 zeros in front, but that seems too easy – and it is all sorted out, the postage of the calendar exceeding the cost of said calendar.  The geek inside me was secretly delighted that instead of the mass of colorful stamps I was hoping for, they print a label…on a dot matrix printer.

I am not sure if you can do a poll in WordPress, but I wish I could open one for votes on whether you think the mail will ever arrive or not.

I can’t remember if I mentioned, I am also here on a mission, to replace some rugs in the house, I am hoping to bypass retail and go straight to the factory.  Another near hotel experience, 10 minutes walk away is diamond carpets.  I walk in expecting a shop, but it is the factory!

Honoured guest I am – and potential customer – so I am given a tour by the manager, offered cold water, given free rein to talk to people and take photos.  I am truly gobsmacked by what you can’t see from the entrance where there are 13 people working at 6 looms.

img_2220

In the back and downstairs in this deceptively large building are dozens of people doing work that I am not even sure how to describe.  Tedious? Mundane? Manual? All of the above and more.  According to manager they have 200 workers, including another factory.

img_2219

Take the guys above.  They are sitting, going over this carpet centimetre by centimetre looking for loose threads, long threads, wonky threads and who knows what else.  I had them show me a spot they were going to fix, I couldn’t pick anything wrong, but apparently there was something to snip.

As an aside, I was in a shop looking at rugs, feeling out prices and learning a bit (it is easy to get ripped off) when a man delivered a bespoke rug that someone had commissioned.  It was absolutely beautiful, a simple geometric design on a rich emerald green background and had taken him 3 months make.  They wouldn’t tell me the price.

The women below, and you can’t see them all, are hand stitching the carpet edges and putting the fringe along the ends.  It was amazing.

img_2217

I wanted to talk prices but didn’t have my list of sizes with me and offered to come back in the morning before I leave for Jaipur.  When I return the manager isn’t in for the day (did he not know that the previous afternoon?) and the people are completely unhelpful.  What a contrast.

img_22411

You should have seen how fast she could tie those knots, I am sure they are paid by their output.  It can be hard to be objective about photos.  This one tells a story and will bring back strong memories for me.  I love it (not withstanding that some light on her face would have improved it), but is it interesting if you weren’t there?

Walking back to the hotel I see this.  I don’t think it needs an explanation.  Another example of the amazing work people do.

On the way to the bus I spot this

I wonder if he dreamed of filling them with helium

I wonder if he dreamed of filling them with helium

It’s a lousy photo through the front window of the bus (Tall Boy has a philosophy of not taking photos from a moving vehicle.  I have adopted that, but this was too good), but we were overtaken by these people doing about 90kph.

img_2246

What could possibly go wrong?

I also had fun at the rest stop during the trip. After watching the cook for a while I got to take a chappati out a tandoor oven – how the cook puts his hand in is beyond me. Then made all the workers laugh with a couple of magic tricks.

It dawned on me last night that all the interactions I have, all the games, all the laughs, it is very rare to interact with a woman.  This is now going to be the subject of close observation to see if I can figure it out, but I think I know the unfortunate truth.

If you’ve wondered why I came back, I hope this post has given you a sense…I should add that apart from the post office, everything else happened yesterday!  And it was a typical day in India.

I think I will head to Rishikesh for Diwali, one of the biggest festivals in India and around which I planned this trip.  I plan to buy and let of a huge box of fireworks :o)

Cows and people, they'll also anywhere

Cows and people, they’ll sleep anywhere

I am living a Bollywood version of Alien

Still in Agra at the Bonfire Hostel

So much happens in a day that it is truly hard to know where to begin.  I’ll do this in chronological order and hope I leave room for a punch line.

Although I often wake at 0530 it is a time I regard as stupid o’clock and I wish my body would cut it out.  Today I wake up before stupid o’clock because the plan is sunrise at the Taj Mahal.

img_2203

There are very few things that make me uncomfortable in life.  One of them is being locked inside somewhere.  It doesn’t exactly freak me out, but when someone locks a screen door – I am talking with a key – I look for an alternative escape route.  So coming downstairs this morning and finding the door to the street locked from the outside…

Auto driver was there as agreed.  I think he may have slept in his vehicle right out the front 😛  Should I go into the story of how the hostel will pay the auto driver and he still tried to hit me for a fare?  Crap, I just did.  He wanted R50 for a R20 ride!  That is $1, outrageous!

I am actually being generous with drivers and other people.  I will haggle from R50 down to R30 just because I want them to know I know I am being ripped off, then I will give them R50 anyway.

The idea of the Taj at sunrise (0645) is not original.  There is a line for tickets but in true Indian style, no one is selling, they start at about 0600.  It is 1km to the entrance gate and I avoid the overcrowded shuttles and walk.  It is a full moon and I am rewarded with this shot of the East Gate.

img_2192

There’s nothing like waiting in line, and there is a pair of lines outside the closed gate. One for men and one for women.  Oh and then there are sub lines for foreigners who have paid R1000 and Indians who have paid R40.  Guess which one moves faster?

The gate finally opens at 0625 and as I approach the Taj I realise that given the smog, sunrise is going to be a very different experience to seeing one in the desert air at Uluru.

img_2199

My challenge this visit is to try to take some different photos to last time. I don’t want to sound ungrateful, but it actually isn’t easy to find new ways to photograph this incredible building.

img_2205

 

img_2210

You aren’t allowed to wear shoes in the mausoleum area – you did know that the Taj Mahal was built by the Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favourite wife, right?  Premium payers are given a bottle of water and shoe covers (I chose barefoot – why wouldn’t you?).

Indians get to use the free service below and then are badgered into paying a tip after watching their shoes being treated with disdain.

img_2212

I liked this guy

img_2208

It was lovely being there, spending most of the time sitting, people watching, Taj Mahal staring, crowd avoiding.

On the way out I stopped for breakfast and had a yummy paratha, why isn’t my Indian food ever this good? Sitting watching the world go by, this tractor loaded with women pulled up.

img_2215

I may have gotten this wrong, but it seems that only poor women cover their head with their sari.  I guessed correctly that these women were here to work.  Pretty soon they are doing about the most meaningless job I may ever have seen, they were cleaning out some of the dirt between the cobble stones on road!  Not like it is being pulled up or anything like that, just making that space between the stones deeper.  But at least they are earning about R80 a day.  I think this is a good thing.

I don't often set up a shot, but these boys were happy to oblige

I don’t often set up a shot, but these boys were happy to oblige.

Next mission was to hit the ATM, about 1.5km from Bonfire.  Having already walked a long way I decided to get an auto.  One picked up 3 young guys and it often happens that they add more passengers, so they stopped for me.

One guy speaks quite good English and wants to help me by taking me to where there is more than one ATM.  Did you notice I stuck the magic word help in there? I also stuck the word stuck in there because this guy stuck with me as I went from ATM to ATM trying to find one that would cough up.

Of course, he has an auto and would like to take me on a tour… Though if he had an auto, why was he in an auto?  But let’s not get pedantic.  I can shake most people but this guy was like that critter in Alien, nothing could dislodge him from being in my face.

I told him I had no money which was true at that point, hence me looking for an ATM.  At least 5 didn’t work so I could keep the no money line going.  Eventually I struck Rupees, quickly put it in my pocket and came out saying “another one doesn’t work”.

Despite me telling him that he had worn out his welcome, was making me unhappy, was not a good advertisement for Agra, that I have leprosy, he tagged along.

img_2225

I was starting to get the shits because he didn’t stop talking the whole time, this has been about 45 minutes by now.  Eventually I realised we were near Sheroes and I concocted a story that I would visit my friend there to borrow money.

As I walked up to the door one of the staff recognised me from the last two days and shook my hand like, you guessed it, a friend. And when I turned around, alien was gone.

I have a yarn about a rug making factory (sorry, couldn’t resist) but this post is long enough already.  Tomorrow is a travel day to Jaipur so I will save it.

It was a long day, and I was happy to end it with a meal on the hostel rooftop. Because I had been to the ATM and thought I deserved a treat, I finished the evening with 500ml of cock.

Should I swallow?

…or a banana spreat.  Same thing?

I should sleep well tonight.

High stakes scamming

Where?  Still in Agra at Bonfire Hostel

I woke up, glanced at my tablet, it’s 0730, not too bad a nights sleep.  Check emails, do some stuff, read, hang out for an hour and then check time on my phone, 0630.  WTF????   Crap, this is the right time, I hadn’t changed the time on my tablet. Suddenly I am feeling tired again.

I’m not the first person to observe that the best way to see a place is on foot.  Nor am I the first to notice that when on foot, there is a lot to be said for following your nose and seeing where you end up.

Come, my friend. Walk the back streets of Agra with me, I guarantee many laughs along the way.

img_21781

Akil from the hostel had recommended a restaurant last night. You would have enjoyed the malai kofta. While walking there I wasn’t sure if I had missed it, businesses can be pretty obscure.  I asked a guy selling apples “where is Priya Restaurant?”, he pauses for a moment and says “50 Rupees”.  I can’t help myself and burst out laughing and walk on, finding the place about 100m further on.  Thinking about how much money he likely makes selling apples from a cart (there’s heaps of competition) I decided to give the poor bugger R50 on the way back, unfortunately he had taken his apples and gone home. Karma?

This morning we will head in the same direction, not to find apple wallah, but because it is somewhere new.  Where there had been a handful of stalls last night, now the place was bustling.  Down a dusty lane where people seemed to be coming and going look what we find, a fabulous vegetable market.

You can never have too much coriander

You can never have too much coriander

Sellers need to do something good to be competitive here, most people sell one thing and whatever they are selling, there is likely 20 other people selling it too.

...or potatoes

…or potatoes

Let us stop for a moment and watch one woman buy about 5kg of potatoes –  it looked like she paid R60 ($1.20).  How people make a living is beyond my understanding.

Purchases are piled high on people’s heads, on bicycles and in the back of autos.  It is quite something to watch.

Wandering aimlessly I notice we are heading toward the Taj Mahal, it is only 1km from the hostel.  I spot what we would call a shopping centre, this is called Golden Bazar and we head for the main entrance, shops are interesting for their differences to home.

And this place is different.  It can best be described as an Indian version of Banksy’s dismaland.  Almost every shop is empty and boarded up, but remarkably one or two were operating…why?  And out the front, to complete the scene was this.

img_21851

dismal indeed

How are you enjoying our walk so far?  All this and we’ve only covered maybe 1km and had to wave off about 20 auto drivers who refuse to believe we want to walk.

Down to the East Gate Road and along to the entrance to the Taj Mahal. There has been some glimpses, but with all the smog it is hard to tell if that really is it (it is, of course). We’ve  walked about 4km now, how are you holding up?  Drink water, it is only R20 per litre. This has been a good scouting mission as we discovered we passed the ticket office 1km back without noticing.  Putting the ticket office conveniently next to the gate would be un-Indian.

Yes, I know the main road turns right, but the hotel, though a fair way off, is more or less straight ahead, so let’s follow this small road. What can possibly go wrong when you have Google maps on your phone?

img_21881

This is the real India, people going about their chores and business remarkably all within a stone’s throw of the Taj.  A smile and hello will almost always elicit a response and people asking “what country”  delight in hearing we are from “Australia – Ricky Ponting“.  Yes it worked last trip, why not use it again.

img_21871

Look at this, the map doesn’t lie, we have popped out right near the hotel.  Nice!

Here’s that pesky auto driver again, he won’t give up.  I enjoy the banter, he has a great smile, speaks excellent English and needs us to be the first customer of the day “for good luck”. 😀 His offer of R20 (40c) for an hour is embarrassingly cheap.  Raju is going to get his good luck and we get him take us to Sheroes, resisting his offer of stopping at a few shops on the way. He will wait.

img_21911

And if an auto driver says he will wait, he will wait.

90 minutes at Sheroes. We would have stayed longer but two groups of about 15 people each came in completely overwhelming the place.  When we leave, noting that Raju’s auto is still parked over the road I lead the way.  I duck left, weave behind a parked bus, scuttle along with a horse drawn cart, cross the road (so we are on the wrong side, traffic coming towards us).  Stupid me, driving into oncoming traffic is a basic use of the road and suddenly Raju is beside us again.

Lots of laughs as he recounts everything that happened in the restaurant and comes up with more excuses on why we should ride with him.  No, walking is good!

But then he come up with an idea, a high stakes scam, if you will. If you know me you’ll know this is my idea of fun.  He will take us for free, we will stop at a shop and go in and look around, appearing interested in the outrageously overpriced jewellery.  He will receive a whopping R20 commission for bringing tourists.

It seems to work, I will come back later with my wife to show her those beautiful rings.  To play the part we have to get back in the auto and he drops us 100m down the road.

Another km or so and we are back at the hostel, I guess we have walked about 6km.  What fun, did you enjoy that?

Of course there has to be a fitting end to our morning and there he is, Raju is parked outside the hostel.  “Did you get your R20?”. Thumbs up and a big smile.

Arrived in Delhi – you won’t believe what happens next

Location: Agra, not part of the plan

Hotel: Royal Inn Raj Paradise – don’t be fooled by the name. 2 stars*

Bonfire Guest House 4 stars*

* This is my personal rating based on how useful the hotel is.  e.g. Royal Inn was crap, they had a noisy generator running for power, linen may or may not have been clean, didn’t speak much English.  Bonfire is crappish, but it is cheap, the owner is a young guy who is super friendly and helpful which gives the place bonus stars.

I imagine it happens in other industries, but in hospitals there is a pervasive superstition.  If you enter a ward that is quiet, you are not to mention the word quiet as that ensures that it won’t be quiet for much longer.

Similarly I mentioned good omens yesterday – stupid me.

It was a looong 36 or so hours getting to Delhi.  Not much sleep and bodily clock completely out of whack.

I had made reservations at two hotels as I know how these things work, last trip on the night I arrived my driver couldn’t find the hotel I had booked even though we were right at the address.  I later learned that a hotel entrance might just be a door, I can now add to that knowledge that I don’t know how these things work at all, it can be way more ‘interesting’.

img_21752

With only hand luggage I was out of the airport in 10 minutes. Nice!

Getting to New Delhi station from the airport was a surprisingly simple mission. There was the usual clutch of auto drivers and I agreed to a R50 fare to the hotel.

Somewhere near it we were blocked by a boom gate, the area is closed.  Gate keeper and auto drive converse in Hindi and I understand that we are trying a different route.

Except we weren’t.  I ended up at a ‘tourist office’ where I discover there is  some festival on, the one where they whip themselves with sharpened somethings – Knives? Chains? Tongues?  Who knows, but the area is sealed off.

It seems half of Delhi is shut down and the helpful bloke let’s me call both hotels who confirm I can’t get to them.  It is now midnight and I am exhausted.

Helpful bloke suggests the only solution is to get out of Delhi.  There are no trains by this time of night and I am exhausted.

After a lot of research, discussion, righteous indignation, thoughts and vacillation I am still too exhausted to think straight and knowing I am being robbed I agree to a driver taking me 200km to Agra.  Short of sleeping on the ground at the railway station I can’t come up with anything else.

I was assured, this is a 2.5 hour trip, but that didn’t factor in a driver whose average speed was under 80kph on a 100kph freeway.  He drove the whole way with his lights on high beam – no big deal, so did everyone else, it was blinding.  I was struggling to stay awake and was freaking out that he was too.

Fortunately most of the time we were going slowly enough to avoid serious injury should he have run off the road or into one of the many trucks with no tail lights.

img_21752

We arrive at 0400 at an overpriced hotel in a back street off of a back street of Agra. When I left this morning the guy asked if I was coming back and when I said it was unlikely, miraculously the price of a room dropped by 30%.  I can only wonder if the 30% surcharge went to the driver.

I am less exhausted now, I have a SIM card, some cash and all the time in the world.

Monday I will go back to the Taj Mahal – like any Wonder of the World you don’t go there on the weekend.  Not part of the plan, but I am here, why wouldn’t I?

The other thing I was hoping to do since I am in Agra was visit Sheroes Restaurant but had no idea how to find it.

Walking to find an ATM and phone shop I stumbled on it by chance.  But I am not taking this as an omen.

A religious experience

$AUD1 = 3 Ringgit = 50 Rupees = $US0.75c  Try to keep this in mind, I will generally talk in the local currency unless I need to convert for effect.

Location: Kuala Lumpur

Hotel: Container Capsule at airport.  Quite interesting. 80 Ringgit for 6 hours to catch up on sleep.  Built to look like shipping containers but it isn’t really.  Just a bed in a compartment even I can’t stand up in, but it is perfect.  If it was my holiday destination it would rate 1 star, but to freshen up it gets 4.5 stars – losing that last bit for having a noisy fan.

img_2173

The trip has started wth a good omen – I have an empty row of seats on the flight fromGold Coast to Kuala Lumpur.  Yeah, it is only a 3 seat row, but that is plenty long enough for me to stretch out during the 8 hour flight.

I manage to get about 4 hours sleep 🙁

Into KL at 0400, how exciting!!!  And I am an international transfer so appear doomed to living hell, a day inside an airport. I know it is a first world problem and casually mention to someone behind an information desk that I am supposedly a privileged white male.

She immediately grasps the seriousness of the situation and suggests I can get a “pass out” from immigration if I already have my boarding pass.

Before I know it the time is 0530 and I am at KL Sentral station wondering a) what time it gets light (0700) and b) what time the city wakes up – coincidentally it is 0700 as well.

The first train to Batu Caves (thanks for the idea uncle Ron) is too nervous to appear until first light so I kill 90 minutes in another kind of living hell, a railway station.  This has the dubious attraction of a guy in camo walking around blowing a whistle periodically.  I look for a ball game of some sort and realise that the game is “don’t you dare fall asleep suckers”, played with homeless people and other travellers.

img_2148

Batu Caves is actually pretty cool.  A limestone outcrop full of some huge caves dropped in the middle of suburbia.  Hmmm…since caves are open space can something be full of them?  Let the debate begin.

img_2152

The place has many temples in and around it.  it is obvious how, like Uluhru, such things had (have?) mystical significance.  The biggest cave is the only one you don’t have to pay to get into, which means it is the only one open at 0730.

My guess is that they tried taking money off people but after the climb they were too exhausted to pay.  It is steep!!!  But it is worth the effort to see how ongoing renovation works can nudge something that is quite outstanding to being quite a mess.

img_2156

I am there for morning puja, a drummer and someone playing a long instrument that likely has a name but can best be described as a metal oboe but with holes rather than whatever those mechanical things are.  In the West drum machines have taken their toll on drummers, here there is no harmonium player, instead there is a cassette player playing a drone – cassette player!  The acoustics in the cave are awesome enough to overlook this.

Despite all the work going on the place is really interesting, plenty of gods to pray to if you are so inclined.  I was watching a ritual and the holy man came over and put a white tilak mark on my forehead.  Astonishingly, I wasn’t expected to make a donation (I don’t think).

One good thing about being so early was that the tourist busses didn’t start arriving until about 0930 – I think the place gets crazy during the day.

img_2168

Body clock completely wonky, I think I am hungry and right opposite was a Hindu restaurant. These places are great because Hindus are vegetarian so no trying to figure what to eat.

My first meal is a dhosa with 2 glasses of sugar cane juice for 10 Ringgit ($3).  It was a religious experience.

img_2167

 

Is this it?

I fly out in 4 hours and thought it wise to make sure all systems are working.  This is mainly a test of whether https://Steve.Davis.net.au posts automatically end up on Google+ and Facebook. And it is a good opportunity to get started once again.  If you are interested in reading about my last trip click the 2015 category in the right hand column.

I am taking a phone, a tablet and a camera – although I have a support team so I can relax a bit, I will be keeping an eye on 123host.  What a world we live in when I can take photos on each of the devices.  And what a first world issue to deal with when deciding which takes the best shot.

Best way to decide is a test

Samsung tablet

Samsung tablet -2Mb

 

Canon camera

Canon ixus camera – 9Mb

 

Motorola G3 phone

Motorola G3 phone – 5Mb

I think I will use the camera mostly.  The tablet is a distant 3rd on resolution alone and let’s not even discuss that my finger photobombed the shot.

While I like the colours and contrast of the phone over the camera, they can be adjusted later in LightRoom.  I prefer that little bit of extra view with the camera, I can always crop a camera shot, but I can’t add to a phone shot.  It will be useful to take photos with the camera once in a while…I keep telling myself that.

This bag is all I am taking.  I looked at it and laughed in a mixture of embarrassment, triumph and patheticness.  It seriously has all I need.  A clean shirt and pair of shorts, toiletries, some medicals (double checks gastri-stop), too many wires and chargers and of course, a ukulele.  Yes, there is really a uke in there – I hope it will survive the trip.

What else can a person possibly need?

The bizarre thing is I needed a huge suitcase for a week in Melbourne recently and a day pack is all I need for 5 weeks in India.

Overnight to Kuala Lumpur where I really hope I am allowed out of the airport to go to Batu Caves during a 14 hour layover.  Then into Delhi 2200hrs local time on Friday…I should be in great shape 😛

Addendum

“My beauty is my smile.” 

This is the motto of the women at Sheroes Hangout, a café run and managed by acid attack survivors in India. They are strong, they are fearless, and they’re challenging the perception of beauty while raising awareness of violence against women.

Nestled amongst a row of busy shopfronts in the famous city of Agra—home to the Taj Mahal—stands a brightly colored two-story café called Sheroes Hangout. This pay-what-you-choose café employs women who have survived harrowing acid attacks, often at the hands of their own family members or romantic partners. According to a 2017 report by USA Today, acid attacks have been on the rise in India, averaging an estimated 250 to 300 victims per year. In India, an estimated 70 percent of acid attack victims are women. Often the acid, which is easily procured and extremely corrosive, leaves its victims deformed, blind, and forever scarred.

 

At Sheroes Hangout, the survivor’s stories are varied. One woman was attacked by a step-parent, jealous of her partner’s child. Another woman was left permanently scarred by her husband who, in his anger over not having been given a son, threw acid on his wife and two sleeping daughters. One young woman was attacked by a group of young men at random, who tossed the deadly liquid at her as she walked down the street.

Sheroes Hangout in India | © Barcroft Media/Getty Images
Sheroes Hangout in India | © Barcroft Media/Getty Images

In an effort to address the growing national issue, two young men—Ashish Shukla and Abhay Singh—began the #StopAcidAttacks campaign in Delhi in March 2013. The founders were appalled by the staggering figures of acid attacks in India compounded with the lack of awareness about the violence against the predominantly female victims.

“Someone had to take the initiative,” explains Singh. “Acid attacks could be against males or females, but the majority of acid attacks are gender-biased towards women. We knew we couldn’t reach out to all of those survivors, so we decided to form an organization to represent them.”

The men quickly realized that the campaign’s goal would be to address the challenges that women would face after their attacks. They saw the need for a place where survivors could not only earn an income but also come together and uphold their dignity in society, proudly showing their faces in the safety of an organization that supports them. In December 2014, Sheroes Hangout was opened in Agra followed by a second café established in Lucknow.  

An acid attack survivor working at Sheroes Hangout in India | © Barcroft Media/Getty Images
An acid attack survivor working at Sheroes Hangout in India | © Barcroft Media/Getty Images

As a tourist in India, I first came across Sheroes Hangout in January 2017 while on a visit to the famous city of Agra. With its brightly colored décor and a menu of tasty snacks, the café seemed similar to any other but for one stark difference: all of the staff don scars from their life-changing acid attacks. 

There is no need to ask the women what happened to them. Their stories are posted on the walls, played on a video screen, and printed on written materials. Guests are invited to visit the café to enjoy a meal or a drink, all while learning about acid attacks and meeting the strong, resilient women who survived them.

“After the attack, I couldn’t find work. No one would employ me. I had no way to make money” says Maddhu Kashyap, a wife and a mother from an underprivileged area of Agra who works at Sheroes Hangout.

It was only after a group from Sheroes Hangout came to visit Maddhu during one of her hospital stays that she learned about the café as a workplace. Her family was struggling to cover the costs of her injuries and medical expenses, but it was the lack of future income that caused her the greatest anxiety.

“It’s hard to get a job If you’ve been attacked by acid. Companies only want to hire beautiful faces. The government doesn’t give any help to victims,” adds Maddhu. “Now that I’m working at Sheroes Hangout, my children are back at school. It was the foreign people who buy drinks and eat food that helped me. Not the government.”

An acid attack survivor working at Sheroes Hangout in India | © Barcroft Media/Getty Images
An acid attack survivor working at Sheroes Hangout in India | © Barcroft Media/Getty Images

I speak with Roopa Kashyap, a woman I first met back in 2017. The change I see in this woman in just two years is remarkable. In our first meeting, Roopa proved quiet and shy. On this visit, Roopa sits before me in a black fitted blazer while wearing an expression of self-assurance and confidence. 

“I never used to leave the house. I only left for medical appointments and hospital visits and when I did, I covered my face,” recalls Roopa. “Since joining Sheroes, I no longer cover my face. I make regular appearances and I speak about the Stop Acid Attack campaign. Now, I don’t care what people say.”

Roopa explains to me that when the Sheroes employees hear of a woman who was attacked, they go to meet her,  give comfort, and provide support in those early days. 

“It’s important for us to be together and show that Sheroes understands,” says Roopa with a smile. “We can support each other and continue living our lives.” 

Sheroes Hangout in India | © Sabrina Rubini
Sheroes Hangout in India | © Sabrina Rubini

Unfortunately, due to changes in Agra and a road widening plan, apparently Sheroes Hangout has been forced to move (their Lucknow location remains open). The café is currently closed and a #RebuildingSheroes campaign has been launched to raise funds for the new location. 

I realised I left out a couple of important things along the way, so like all plans, the plan to not add any more to this blog was flexible.  And I just found this in drafts ages later, still worth publishing.

Something has popped up on social media the last couple of days and I can’t believe I didn’t mention it at the time.  In Agra, the location of the Taj Mahal, we visited Sheroes restaurant – twice.  Rather than me explain, read this.  Incredibly brave women with horrific injuries.

Namaste

That’s all folks.  The actual adventure is over but the memories will linger…which is why we do such things.

There are a lot of beliefs and myths and stuff about India that you hear, this is my annotated list of things I wish I had known before I went.

  • India is amazing – it is everything you do and don’t expect and more.  India is an assault on all your senses.  It is colourful, friendly, frustrating, noisy, crowded, spectacular, religious, smelly, funny, not punctual (mostly – but who cares) and absolutely fantastic.IMG_0714(1)
  • Pack light – if I ever go again my entire wardrobe would be 1 pair long pants, 1 pair shorts, 2 cotton shirts, 1 pair sandals/thongs.  That’s it.  You do not need shoes, I carried a pair for 7 weeks that I only wore on the plane over.  If you go north in the winter you might need a jacket.  Obviously this doesn’t count for women, you will still need your entire wardrobe.
  • Water is not such a hassle – I didn’t intentionally drink tap water but I am sure I ingested it many times in drinks, food and the like.  I likely brushed my teeth in tap water out of habit. Don’t freak out about it especially after you have been there a while and gotten accustomed to the flora.  Drinking water is available everywhere, absolutely everywhere, for Rs20 (40c) for a 1 litre bottle

.Sunrise, the red tinge is caused by air pollution which is awful right across India

  • Not everyone speaks English – this was a bit of a surprise as I had assumed they did, even if not well.  Also, not everyone speaks Hindi, especially in Tamil Naidu.  I learned a handful of Hindi words and could count and then couldn’t use any of it the last week in the South.  Speak in simple sentences even to English speakers.  Don’t say “Can you tell me the way to the railway station please” say “Which way railway station?”.  More often than not people will go out of their way to help you.  Those that don’t will simply point in the general direction or give you a head waggle.
  • Head Waggle – yes it is endemic, here is what it means:

    waggle

    See that little golden spot where all the circles intersect? THAT is the meaning of the head waggle…I think

  • Money is easy – get yourself a Citibank debit card.  No fees, they do a straight 3% loading on currency conversion, it can be used in ATMs everywhere to get local currency (watch for those that charge a transaction fee).  The only problem was some online booking won’t accept a foreign debit card, shop elsewhere, there is always an alternative to buy exactly the same thing.
  • Trains are the best way to travel – install the Cleartrip app, easily the best way to book trains.  If you are travelling overnight get yourself a 2AC seat this is 2nd class Air Conditioned.  You get a bed and linen including a small towel. If you are not that fussy get a sleeper class, reserved bed but that’s all you get.  Avoid general seating at all costs.   Don’t freak out if a train is full a couple of days before and you are wait listed with up to 10 in front of you. In the whole time I was only not confirmed once, that was with The Sheila (she was confirmed) and we both travelled anyway. For trips to the airport and the like Uber and a local version, Ola, also work well.  If you get an overnight bus, be sure to get a sleeper, they are pretty good.IMG_0687(1)
  • Buy a local SIM – cheap as and even if just for using Google maps it is well worth it, especially since they don’t make station announcements on trains so you can check where you are.  You will also get SMS notification about train bookings and the status of your ticket.  I used Airtel, would likely choose another company next time, it was pretty slow internet.
  • You will get sick – maybe not very sick, I didn’t.  But I definitely (and still) had stomach upsets that were more an inconvenience because you need to be aware of the nearest convenience.  I took an arsenal of antibiotics for every ailment you could think of.  Probably better to be prepared than need to go looking for it when you are feeling awful, but I do feel it was overkill.  You can buy any drug over the counter at Medical Stores, even down to asking for how many tablets you want and they will be cut off the strip.IMG_1355(1)
  • Eat street food – obviously not everything you see, but if it looks good, there are lots of people eating i.e. it is fresh and you are hungry, go for it.  Street samosas are the best, don’t be surprised to see someone in front of you feeling them to make sure they are hot.  I really enjoyed fresh sugar cane juice too, very refreshing and a bit of an energy boost.  When you buy street food it is expected that you stand and eat and drink it before you pay for it.  Also, if you need more sauce on your samosa, just ask.food
  • Hotels are mostly good – this is a no brainer, you generally get what you pay for.  Anything over about Rs700 will be reasonable, feel free to check the room first, don’t forget to feel the mattress, they can be very hard, a light pad over a board.  Also check the hot water, don’t take their word for it that there is hot water – not that it matters really, the weather was so hot most of the time a cool shower was welcome.  Towels are rare, take your own travel towel, one of those light ones that dries quickly. Every room has a ceiling fan that you will welcome for the air movement and the speed with which your washed clothes dry. The included Wifi will nearly always be dodgy.  Sometimes a hotel will include breakfast which will sometimes be really good and other times just a piece of white toast with jam.
  • Have a theme – this time my theme was finding stepwells.  It didn’t dominate my trip or distract from anything else, but it was fun to track them down and they are so cool.  Your theme might be bird watching or temple visiting or seeing concerts.  No matter what, it gives you some detective work to do in each location and you never know what it all leads to.  This is where the adventure lies.IMG_0860(1)
  • Go with the toilet flow – I think that washing rather than wiping is cleaner and embraced it.  Finding toilet paper in a hotel is rare, anywhere else it is almost unheard of.  Get used to it, likely 6 billion people in the world do not use TP.
  • Say yes! – this has been an onging theme of the blog because it was my philosophy for the trip.  Saying yes to things I would normally balk at led to some of the most incredible and unique experiences I had.  Obviously you need to make a quick decision on whether it isn’t such a good idea, but I don’t think I had more than a couple of times I knocked back an offer.  Do be aware of people hustling, almost everyone wants something in return for helping you.  But if you are offered a meal or somewhere to stay take it.  The guest is god in India, people are honoured to have you in their homes and treat you unbelievably well.

    I was invited into a Hindu festival celebration. I said yes, it was fantastic.

    I was invited into a Hindu festival celebration. I said yes, it was fantastic.

That’s it.  I have nothing more to say.  I hope you have enjoyed my ramblings and maybe are inspired to have an adventure of your own.  If you have been lurking and gotten this far without commenting, say “hi” in the comments.

IndiaNamaste